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Whether you are moving to Egypt or just passing through, we are sure you are full of questions. Egypt is a fascinating country, but its laws, religion, culture, beliefs and practices may be very different from those of your country and yourself. At times you may find things confusing or wonder what to expect when you come to this country.
The best way to make travelling to Egypt more enjoyable is to familiarize yourself with the local way of life. We hope to be there for you by answering your queries to the best of our experiences and knowledge.
By coming to this site you have already shown an interest in learning more about Egypt. We created this website to provide you with a picture of travel and life in Egypt from the perspective of a visitor and a resident. This, in part, was born out of our frustration with sources that attempt to paint a sanitized and one-dimensional view of things. We hope you will join us on this Egyptian Adventure by e-mailing your questions, experiences and comments. We will do our best to answer your e-mails and if we believe that others may benefit from the questions that you have raised, we will anonymously post them alongside our reply. Likewise, we are interested in posting your first-hand experiences while in Egypt for others to read about on our Anecdote page. We have attempted to provide basic and practical information about being a foreigner in Egypt, so please take a stroll around our site. We are "experts" in the sense that Indiana is currently living in Cairo, Egypt and Carolina has visited. In case you are wondering, we are not travel agents, we do not make any money out of this and we are answering your questions during our spare time - that is when the internet is working in Egypt - to provide a free and (hopefully) useful service to visitors and residents.
We are moving!! Literally!!
The time has come to bid adieu to Egypt and move on to greener (well, less sandy) pastures. We have enjoyed being there to guide you through your Egyptian Adventure and wish you all the best in your future endeavors. In the meantime, if you have any questions about Egypt, may we direct you to the following web sites:
If you are a tourist, please contact our recommended travel agent:
Egypt Panorama Tours: 4 Road 79, Maadi. Tel: 202-359-0200, 358-5880, 359-1301; fax: 202-359-1199; US fax: 1-801-881-5752 (will be sent via e-mail); e-mail: [email protected]
If you are looking for a job in Egypt:
CareerEgypt
EgyptRecruitment
Premieregypt
Skill-link
SkillRate
MegahedGroup
Wadyelnile
For general Ex-pat (and some tourist) information:
EscapeArtist
OutPostExPat
Married to an Arab
Egypt WWW Index
Community Services Association Links Page
If you are researching a project:
Albany Institute
Great site for students but equally useful for those with a thirst for knowledge. Links include Egyptology, mythology, museums, Tutankhamen, mummification, hieroglypics, to name a few.
Arab Net
Extensive history of Egypt
Oriental Institute Research Archive
Excellent site for students researching ancient Egypt. Includes cross-sections of the pyramids and a cyber mummy.
Egyptian Mysteries
Need information on the pyramids or the Sphinx? Check here.
Great Pyramid of Giza Reserach Association
Interesting articles on the pyramids
The Plateau
Official web site of Dr. Zahi Hawass.
Dr. Hawass may be e-mailed via The Supreme Council of Antiquities at [email protected]
Guardian's Egypt
Information on Ancient Egypt with panoramic pictures.
Graham Hancock
Read about theories of the pyramids and the Sphnix.
Egypt Exploration Society
Find out about current digs.
Daily Life in Ancient Egypt
Terrific links on Ancient Egypt
A to Z Home's Cool Homeschooling
Many links on different subjects
Splendors of Ancient Egypt Educational Guide
Life in Ancient Egypt on one page
Ancient Egypt
Ancient Egypt Links
Visit here if you want to know more about Hieroglyphics:
The Hieroglyphic Alphabet and Tutor
Advanced Hieroglyphic Reading
How to Pronounce Hieroglypics
Here you will find Arabic dictionaries and online learning:
The Arab World
Learn to Read Arabic
Babel's Arabic
Learn Arabic Online
Arabic for Windows
Translate English to Arabic Words
Extensive Dictionary
From time to time I will be checking my e-mail, so if you find yourself really searching for answers, I may be able to help out.
Best of luck with your Egyptian Adventure.
Indiana (March 2004)
Please send your questions to [email protected] or click on the e-mail icon below. Please double check your e-mail address before sending. Talk to you soon!
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I will be visiting Egypt for the first time in June. I am very excited as this is a dream come true. I have so many questions. The most important is probably about safety. I have heard that Luxor isn't safe at night and we are staying overnight there before returning to Cairo. Any comments? I would be interested in any books/travel guides you could recommend-fiction/non-fiction, etc. Also any other advice for the first time traveller to Egypt. We are using Viking Travel and they have been most helpful. Thanks and I have enjoyed your web site. (Missouri, USA)
I first visited Egypt in 1992 and it was an experience, despite living here now, that I have never forgotten and still treasure. Egypt is a magical land and I am glad that you will have the opportunity to visit Luxor where you will find some of the most breathtaking tombs in all of Egypt.
I have travelled and stayed in Luxor many times and have found it to be completely safe. In fact, many foreigners living in Cairo escape to Luxor to avoid the crush and chaos that is Cairo. You, too, will probably find Luxor peaceful and a nice break from Cairo. Your hotel will most likely be along the Nile, so my advice is to stick to the waterfront and the obvious tourist areas (such as where there are shops). It will be safe to walk around at night provided you use the same common sense that you would use in any city. There have been no reports of tourists or residents being the victims of personal crimes while in Luxor.
The main thing to be aware of is that you will encounter dirt, bad food, chaotic streets and pushy, rude locals bent on you buying something or riding their camels! As long as you are prepared for this, have a few Arabic words such as "la" (no), "shukran" (thank you) or "halass" (enough!), you should be able to get past the negative and truly see the beauty and magic in this land. Your travel agency and tour guide will be there to help you, so consult them if you are uncomfortable about anything.
I highly recommend "The Rough Guide" or "Lonely Planet's Guide to Egypt". Another good guide is "Let's Go Guide to Egypt and Israel". I have found all of these guides to be more honest as they discuss the good and the bad of what you will see and experience, whereas other guides simply list things to do and see. The above guides also provide excellent maps to museums and sites. When visiting a site, I always carry "The Rough Guide". If you are not sure about lugging a guide around, photocopy a few key pages such as maps and site descriptions and tuck them in your purse or pocket. Finally, having a guide book with you is helpful as tour guides at sites have a tendency to make up information. Reading about a site the night before will make the visit more enjoyable.
Other books to read:
Fiction: A popular fiction book is "A Woman of Cairo" by Noel Barber. Set between 1919-1953, this romantic novel details the politics of Egypt during that era. Any books by Naguib Mahfouz, Yusuf Idris or Ibrahim Abdel Meguid (all Egyptian literature award winners) are well enjoyed here, too.
Non-fictions books: Geraldine Brooks "Nine Parts of Desire: The Hidden World of Islamic Women"; Katherine Frank "A Passage to Egypt: The Life of Lucie Duff Gordon"; Nayra Atiya "Khul-Khaal: Five Egyptian Women Tell Their Stories"; Donna Bowen & Evelyn Early "Everyday Life in the Muslim Middle East".
In Egypt, a nice picture and history book to pick up is the "All of Egypt" by Abbas Cahlaby. You can find this in any hotel book store.
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My husband & I really want to visit Egypt. We are unsure of the best way to do the trip. Should we use a travel agency in the U.S.? Would 2 or 3 weeks be enough time to properly see the country? Thanks for any tips!(Arkansas, USA)
Visiting Egypt is one of the most magical and breath-taking holidays you could ever take. To climb into the depths of a pyramids, sail lazily down the Nile or stare into the jeweled eyes of Tutankhamun is an experience like no other. I recommend that you take a guided tour to visit Egypt for the following reason: this is a challenging place to visit and only on a tour will you be offered some form of security from having to fix by yourself the numerous problems that will arise. In other words, a tour will allow you, for the most part, the chance to enjoy the trip. The tour company will arrange for and be responsible for everything from your transportation to and from the airport, hotel, city transportation, entry into sites, meals, etc. Also, the local tour guide assigned to your group will be able to chase off harassers (very important, especially around the pyramids), help you get bargains while shopping and explain the deep history that you are witnessing.
It is possible to see Egypt in 10 days to 3 weeks, depending on your ambitions. You should spend 2-3 nights in Cairo, adjusting to the heat, culture and jet lag. You will be able to visit the Pyramids of Giza, the Egyptian Museum, and the Khan. If you have time, a trip to the Dashur Pyramids is well worth it. From there you should fly to either Abu Simbel or skip this side trip and head straight to Luxor or Aswan for a 3-4 night Nile cruise (you can start from either city and sail to the other one). Along the way you will visit Nile-bank temples such as Kom Ombo, Philae, Esna and Edfu. I would then suggest you spend 2-3 nights in Luxor visiting the amazing temples and tombs. It will take you a few days to visit the Temples of Luxor and Karnak on the East Bank (where you will be staying) and the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens and other tombs and monuments on the West Bank. I would not rush this as it will probably be, depending on when you visit, very hot and there is a lot to see. If you fancy a few days of complete relaxation where you will not be running around or sightseeing, then visit either Hurghada or Sharm el Sheikh on the Red Sea for a few nights. The beaches are of quite poor quality but these are resorts designed for relaxation.
If you do decide to go solo, I would recommend the following travel agents:
Egypt Panorama Tours: 4 Road 79, Maadi. Tel: 359-0200, 358-5880, 359-1301; fax: 359-1199; e-mail: [email protected]; US fax: 1-801-881-5752; UK fax: 0870-133-8575 (will be sent via e-mail); (Member of IATA and the American Society of Travel Agents)
See Egypt: 26 Road 87, Maadi. Tel: 378-0972, 359-9146 (same fax), e-mail: [email protected]
Other visitors to this web site have used them successfully. I would also suggest that you read through our web site, especially the Sightseeing page and the Anecdote page for a better understanding of what to expect. Do note that it is not safe to travel overland from Cairo to Luxor or Aswan and anywhere else in Upper Egypt. If you have any questions, I would suggest that you contact one of the travel agents to decide what you wish to see and do and then check around for tours that might suit your needs. It is possible to book everything from this end, including transportation, hotels, etc. through one of the agents.
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A male travel companion and I will be traveling independently in Egypt in October. If I understand correctly, we should not travel overland (train) between Cairo and Luxor, that different government advisories say to fly. Is this correct? Is Egyptair the only air carrier between Cairo and Luxor? Also, I have been told that one can go directly to the docks and usually arrange for cruises (say, between Luxor and Aswan) for quite a reduced rate or that local hotel staff can do this for you. Is this accurate? What have you heard about this? Thanks very much!!(Colorado, USA)
It is not recommended for foreigners to travel by land through Upper Egypt which includes travel between Cairo and Aswan or Luxor and south of this point (Upper Egypt is really 'lower' Egypt or south). The police may enforce this by removing you from the bus or train. This is done for your own safety as buses or trains are sometimes used for target practice. Even travelling overland to the Sinai must be done in convoys or with police escorts. A tour operator that is including overland travel (usually for less expensive/student travel) will have a police escort arranged before departure to your location. We, as residents, will only fly to Aswan, Luxor or Abu Simbel as well as to the Sinai (Alexandria is 2.5 hours by car and is safe from bandits - although the roads can be dangerous with the high speed trucks). For further details and up-to-date travel information, I suggest you contact the travel agents I have listed at the end.
I am including timetables and fares (subject to change on a whim!) for train and buses in Egypt for your information, but I do not recommend such travel - you should only fly to your destinations. EgyptAir is the only air carrier between Cairo and Luxor and is good, for the most part. The most unsettling part is the guns and hostile security in the airports.
Trains:
Cairo-Luxor/Aswan
French overnight deluxe sleeper trains depart 7:45 p.m. and 9 p.m.
To Luxor: LE314; To Aswan: LE314
Spanish deluxe trains (no sleepers) depart 6:45 p.m., 8:45 p.m. (Luxor only) and 10 p.m.
To Luxor: LE51.50 (1st class) LE35 (2nd class); To Aswan: LE63.50 (1st class) LE45 (2nd class)
Cairo-Alexandria
Turbini trains (non-stop express) depart 8 a.m., 2 p.m. and 7 p.m. LE30 (1st class) LE22 (2nd class).
Spanish trains (express 2.5 hours) depart 9 a.m., 12 p.m., 3 p.m., 6 p.m. LE22.50.
French trains depart regularly throughout the day from 6 a.m. LE25 (1st class) LE20 (2nd class).
Buses:
Superjet (202-772-663)
Stations: Cairo Airport, Almaza (Heliopolis), Midan Abd el-Mumin Riad (near Ramsis Hilton), Midan el-Giza.
To: Alexandria (LE25-34), Hurghada (LE35-55), Sharm el Sheikh (LE40-65).
East Delta Bus Co. (202-482-4753) Stations: Qulali (near Midan Ramsis)
To: Sharm el Sheikh (LE30-60)
West Delta Bus Co. (202-243-1846) Stations: Midan Abd el-Mumim Riad (near Ramsis Hilton), Almaza (Heliopolis).
To: Hurghada (LE50-55), Luxor (LE50-60), Aswan (LE50-55).
Regarding Nile cruise, I would recommend that you contact the following travel agents in Cairo (they are widely used by foreigners in Egypt and other visitors to this site have successfully used them) for current deals:
Egypt Panorama Tours: 4 Road 79, Maadi. Tel: 359-0200, 358-5880, 359-1301; fax: 359-1199; e-mail: [email protected]; US fax: 1-801-881-5752; UK fax: 0870-133-8575 (will be sent via e-mail); (Member of IATA and the American Society of Travel Agents)
See Egypt: 26 Road 87, Maadi, Cairo, Egypt. (Tel: 202-359-9146. Fax: same. E-mail: [email protected])
It is possible to get good deals on the docks or via a hotel (such as the Movenpick or Sheraton in Luxor) but you take your chances. If the boats are booked full with tour groups, you will be out of luck. The saving are not usually that huge a difference, so it is probably more worth your time comparing prices at one of the above travel agents and your own travel agent at home.
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First, thank you, thank you for a wonderful web site with actual prices and information we can use. It was a delight going through your web site with all the information, tips and places to visit and to SHOP!!! I have heard about women having trouble in Egypt with dressing and your site just confirmed it. What I would like to know is, I am willing to buy those flowing robes women and men wear at the bazaar in Cairo, would that help with the hostility or would it upset them more? Also can my husband wear his shorts, they usually just above the knee, or should he wear long pants? Last question, we would like to go on a ride with camels, but do not want the harassment and being left in the desert because we did not want to pay more than agreed upon. Any suggestions? Thank you again for everything!! (USA/South Africa)
What a woman wears while travelling around Egypt can dramatically impact on her (and her family's) enjoyment of the trip. It is an unfortunate side-effect of different cultures, religions and a literal belief in everything that occurs on soap operas such as 'The Bold and Beautiful'. I regularly reassure my Egyptian staff that all Western women (especially myself) are not amoral, bed-hopping fiends! The fact that I have to do it so frequently is both amusing and distressing for me!
The long flowing robes you are referring to are called galabayas. If you are taking a cruise, you will be able to purchase galabayas on the boat or along the shore - this is encouraged for the theme dinners. Otherwise, I would highly recommend that you take a taxi ride to Maadi (about 20 minutes and about LE20 - settle the amount before you leave and walk into a store or the hotel if you are harassed for more money). Visiting Maadi, the foreign enclave where I live, would let you browse in peace and pay excellent prices. The shopping district is Road 9, Maadi and you will find many foreigners, locals who are used to dealing with foreigners, and all the things you will see at the Khan. Road 9 is a long road with numerous supermarkets, souvenir shops, McDonald's, etc. The best place to get off is at the Pizza Hut and work your way down.
I only see foreigners wear galabayas for the cruise boat theme nights or just to laze around on the boat. I do not believe you would be more exempt from harassment because you are wearing a galabaya at tourist sites or in the streets and you might actually provoke more curiosity for being different than the other tourists. Egypt is not like other Middle East nations where wearing the national dress is essential for freedom of movement. As long as you wear loose cotton pants to your ankles and tops with sleeves that come at least mid-way down your upper arm, you should cut the harassment down to a manageable level. However, even if you are wearing completely 'non-offensive' clothing, you still will be the target of every souvenir seller around. As for your husband, he should be fine with wearing shorts that are just above the knee.
Riding a camel around the pyramids is a once in a lifetime experience, so I understand you wanting to give it a shot! If you are with a tour, ask your Egyptian tour guide to negotiate a camel ride for you. Otherwise, try negotiating a camel on the panorama plateau beyond the third pyramid (reachable by road). If that is too far to walk, you will be able to find camels near Cheops' pyramid. You should pay about LE5 for a photo on the camel and around LE15-20 for a walk-about. Settle the price before you get on and walk away if the camel owner is too high - there are plenty of camels around, including one called 'Charlie Brown'! There is no need for the camel owner/guide to get behind you on the camel so firmly insist he stays on the ground.
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What is the latest travel advisory? (Texas, USA)
You can find current travel advisories at the following web sites:
U.S.A.
U.S. State Department
Canada
Foreign Affairs Canada
U.K.
Foreign & Commonwealth Office
Australia
Department of Foreign Affairs & Trade
I'd like to bring a motorbike through Europe to Alexandria and down to Sharm El Sheikh, where can I find information on gas stations / ferries? (London, UK)
Travelling overland from Britain to Egypt would probably be via Greece, then by ferry to Haifa in Israel either from Piraeus in Greece (the port of Athens) or Limassol in Cyprus and overland from there. Otherwise, the route would be overland from Turkey, Syria, Jordan and Israel (although going back through Syria and Jordan with an Israeli stamp will be out of the question). I am not aware of any direct ferries from Greece or Cyprus to Egypt except for two cruise boats from Limassol in Cyprus to Port Said (Alexandria is a 6 hour drive from Port Said), but these are heavily restricted. Entering Egypt via Israel will land you in Taba in the northern tip of the Sinai and from there it is about a 12-hour drive to Cairo.
There are ferries from Sharm el Sheikh in the Sinai to Hurghada on the mainland. I personally know of no one who has taken this ferry - everyone drives or flies from Cairo to the Sinai. To do this we usually travel in convoys for protection or seek a police escort. The trip takes from 5-12 hours depending on experience and ambition. The following is the information I have on the ferry service between Sharm and Hurghada:
The two ferries depart daily except Wednesday and Friday. The first ferry is the older one and takes between 5-7 hours to make the 144km trip. It departs from the port in Sigala in Hurghada between 9 and 10 a.m. It has been reported that the schedule on this ferry can be unpredictable so best to have a back-up plan for your trip if the ferry is cancelled. You may book tickets through your hotel, the Thomas Cook office in Naama Bay, a travel agent or purchase them at the port. The cost is about LE100 for one-way and you should be at the port at least half an hour in advance. I am not sure if this ferry takes cars.
The second newer ferry is operated by Travco and is a luxury high-speed ferry which does take cars. The cost is around US$33 per person and US$75 per car. It takes one and half hours to make the crossing and departs every Monday (5 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. from the old Sigala port in Hurghada, 7:30 a.m. and 6 p.m. from Sharm), Tuesday (6 a.m. and 8 p.m. from Hurghada, 8:30 a.m. and 10:30 p.m. from Sharm), and Saturday (6 a.m. from Hurghada, 6 p.m. from Sharm). You can contact Travco at 446-024/5 in Hurghada or 661-111 in Sharm at the Riu Palace Hotel for more information.
As with most things in Egypt, cancellations and changes to schedules are the norm. I would suggest that you check with a travel agent for more information on the ferries before you plan your route. The two that I recommend are located in Cairo and cater to the foreign population there:
Egypt Panorama Tours: 4 Road 79, Maadi. Tel: 359-0200, 358-5880, 359-1301; fax: 359-1199; e-mail: [email protected]; US fax: 1-801-881-5752; UK fax: 0870-133-8575 (will be sent via e-mail); (Member of IATA and the American Society of Travel Agents)
See Egypt (Tel: 202-378-0972, 202-358-9146 (same fax); e-mail: [email protected]).
If you are determined to drive (and Egypt has probably the worst driving conditions in the world), you should be aware that if you are travelling across the Nile Valley you will have to use a police convoy (the government insists on this to protect tourists). In the Sinai you may see signs forbidding foreigners to leave the road - some areas are still mined so respect these instructions.
I have not been able to locate a list of gas stations in Egypt. What I would suggest is that you contact one of the above travel agents whom organize land tours and who should be able to let you know what they use. If this is not helpful, try contacting one of the following automobile service companies:
Auto Car Services (parts & repairs): 84 Road 9, Maadi, Cairo. Tel: 202-351-5946
Automobile Club of Egypt: 10 Kasr el Nil St. Cairo. Tel: 202-743-418
General Motors of Egypt: 3 Abu el Feda St., Zamalek, Cairo. Tel: 202-341-2116/340-4004, Fax: 202-341-2418
Max Auto: 6 Genenet Sharkas, Cairo. Tel: 202-575-9554/578-9553. E-mail: [email protected]
Or try contacting a car rental agency:
Avis:
Heliopolis Sheraton (tel: 291-0223)
Meridien Heliopolis (tel: 290-5055)
Nile Hilton (tel: 576-6432)
Airport (tel: 291-4288)
Budget Rent-A-Car:
Cairo Marriott (tel: 340-6667)
Airport (tel: 265-2395)
Hertz:
Ramses Hilton (tel: 574-4400)
Semiramis Inter-Continental (tel: 354-3239)
Airport (tel: 291-4288)
You should also consider how you would protect your bike when you stop at a hotel for the night. I feel that a motorbike would be of great interest to locals and you should inquire at hotels to see what security measures they offer.
I want to someday live in Egypt, what do I do to plan my future? (Washington, USA)
To legally remain in Egypt past one month, you will need an offer of employment or sponsorship or be accepted to study in Egypt. You should contact your local Egyptian consulate for further information as rules and regulations are subject to change on a whim. Tourist visas are good for 3 months and valid for not more than 30 days. If you are staying longer, or plan to work here, the visa extensions are done in Egypt, and not from overseas as is the custom in many countries. If you remain in Egypt without extending your visa, expect serious repercussions - at the very least you will be required to get a letter from your Embassy vouching for you.
Work permits are valid for one year from the date of issue and can be renewed on a yearly basis. The decision to issue a permit is based on reciprocal treatment being granted to Egyptians in your country and conditions laid down by the Ministry of Manpower: that the foreigner must not take work away from an Egyptian, that the economic needs of Egypt are taken into consideration, that the foreigner must be qualified for the position, if a foreigner is employed an Egyptian assistant must be appointed and trained to replace the foreigner, and foreigners born in Egypt have priority over non-Egyptian-born foreigners.
A work permit is usually obtained by your employer. They (or you) will submit your passport, 7 photographs and about LE200 for the permit. You will also most likely be required to submit to an HIV test and the permit will not be issued unless you have a negative test result. Even though the permit will grant you residency for the duration of the permit, you will still be required to apply for the residency stamp in your passport. You and any dependents should submit your passports (valid for two months past the residency period) and two photographs. A residency stamp will cancel the need for a tourist visa and will provide you with the residency rates (about 50% off) on hotels and sites.
If you are considering starting your own business, I believe it would be easier to start up a business from within Egypt unless you have the support of a company. I would suggest you start by contacting the American Chamber of Commerce (based in the Marriott Hotel in Zamalek) which also publishes the magazine, 'Business Monthly'. Another magazine, 'Business Today' is a great source of information and directories. The USAID office in the Cairo Center Building has a commercial library and the Middle East Library for Economic Services has laws, decrees and regulations. Finally, pick up a copy of 'Cairo: The Practical Guide' published by the American University in Cairo Press (LE40) for a great guide on living in Cairo.
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Which books would you best recommend to read before going to Egypt that covers language too? (UK)
I highly recommend "The Rough Guide" or "Lonely Planet's Guide to Egypt", both of which have Arabic language sections (note: The Arabic spoken in Egypt is known as Egyptian Colloquial Arabic (ECA), a dialect of Arabic. ECA is spoken in the streets by the average person (Egyptian tour books that list Arabic words will use ECA) while Classical Arabic will be spoken by older, affluent Egyptians and can be heard on the radio and in prayers.) Another good guide is "Let's Go Guide to Egypt and Israel". Lonely Planet also publishes an Arabic (Egyptian) phrasebook. I have found these three guides to be more honest as they discuss the good and the bad of what you will see and experience, whereas other guides simply list things to do and see. The above guides also provide excellent maps to museums and sites. When visiting a site, I personally always carry "The Rough Guide". If you are not sure about lugging a guide around, photocopy a few key pages such as maps and site descriptions and tuck them in your purse or pocket. Finally, having a guide book with you is helpful as tour guides at sites have a tendency to make up information. Reading about a site the night before will make the visit more enjoyable.
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1. What would be the approximate taxi fares from airports at Luxor and Aswan to the city centers? (2) is it true that we can only take LE1000 in cash into and out of egypt and is there any limit on the amount of foreign currency (US$) that we can bring in? (3) approximately, how much should we expect to pay to hire taxis for the whole day in Luxor (to see the West and East banks)? (4) we have Egyptair tickets (roundtrip) to go to Abu Simbel (from Aswan) on a day trip - is it true that a bus meets us at the airport to take us to the temple and brings us back in time for the return flight? we were told this is included in the price of the tickets - was that information correct? also, we were told that we can have only 2 hours at the temple, but our return flight to Aswan allows us approximately 4 hours there. Will we run into any problems because of this (should we change our tickets)? Finally, thank you for all your help - a great site and a great resource for us first-time travellers.(Texas, USA)
Visiting Egypt for the first time is a magical experience that will take your breath away and challenge your senses. Egypt is really the oldest tourist destinations with the ancient Greeks and Romans paving the way for us today.
1. The approximate fares from the airports to the city centers of Luxor and Aswan are LE20.
2. It is illegal to import or export more than LE1000. If you are bringing in more than US$7000, you will have to declare the amount to customs.
3. Most hotels are not located directly in the city center. Before getting into a taxi, agree upon a price that is acceptable or ask the hotel to arrange a taxi for you. Here are the Taxi Tariffs from most hotels in Luxor to:
One way:
Downtown: LE8
Hilton Hotel: LE20
Luxor Airport: LE20
Aswan: LE120
Safaga: LE140
Hurghada: LE180
Quseir: LE180
Cairo: LE330
Return Trip:
Luxor Museum: LE16
Karnak: LE25
Sound and Light Show: LE25
Dendera: LE50
Esna: LE50
West Bank: LE60
Edfu: LE80
Abydos: LE110
4. It is a 30 minute plane ride from Aswan to Abu Simbel. Round-trip fares do include a free bus ride from Abu Simbel airport to the site and back. You will need approximately 1-2 hours to see Abu Simbel and some time to get to and from the airport as well as check-in, so I believe the 4 hours allotted is appropriate. If you are visiting in the summer months, please note that it will be extremely hot, so bring bottled water on you.
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Hello, What a wonderful web site! My husband and I travelled to Egypt last February JUST TO GO INSIDE The Great Pyramid and it was closed to the public. We couldn't believe it!!! So we have decided to return this October and want to try again on the 22nd of October to get inside the pyramid. Do you know of any reason why it would be closed at this time or do you think we are safe to visit at this time? Also, last year we were with a tour and some people bought their visa at the airport when they arrived. Is this normal? Can we expect to be able to purchase our visas at the airport with no problems? Thank you very much for your assistance. (USA)
I know exactly how you feel about Cheops and visiting it. I first visited Egypt in 1992 and it was closed then. I moved to Cairo in 1998 and it has taken me TWO YEARS of living only 20 minutes from Giza and trying week-end after week-end to finally get into the Great Pyramid!! I have been inside all of the Giza Pyramids and the pyramids of Dashur and it was well worth the wait to visit Cheops. The truth is that Dr. Hawas, the head of the Giza Antiquities Inspectorate, has complete control over which pyramid and when they open and he can close them on a whim. His attitude towards Cheops is extremely sensitive, especially since April 1993 when a German team, using a robot probe, accidentally discovered a door with handles supposedly enclosing a fourth chamber as well as a piece of wood (the significance of this is that the wood could be carbon-dated). Literally since that point, further exploration has been stunted (for an excellent study on the Giza Pyramids, read Graham Hancock's "Keeper of Genesis" - but don't expect to discuss it with anyone here!). For about a year now Dr. Hawas has been claiming that the condensation bought about by tourists breathing within Cheops may force him to close it forever in order to protect it. Thus, my advice is that you should visit sooner as opposed to later because Cheops may be closed. There is no guarantee that it will be open and there is no way of predicting when it will be open. It is, however, open right now, so I think you will have to take your chances, and that October should still be okay.
Do also consider visiting the Dashur Pyramids as the Red Pyramids is almost as exciting to be inside as Cheops. I can send you more information on that if you wish. Regarding visas, you can obtain your visas at the airport (Cairo, Luxor or Hurghada). It is cheaper and easier than getting them at an Egyptian Embassy but you will have to confirm that the airline you are travelling on will let you on board without a visa. Although they should, some friends have reported ignorant or difficult check-in agents. Visas are good for at least 3 months but you many only remain in Egypt for 30 days unless you get an extension. Single-entry visas are US$15 for Americans but the cost does change depending on your nationality.
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My husband just got back from there and got a lot of things there and I want to know where can I get a catalog where I can buy thing from Egypt. (Virginia, USA)
Some stores in Egypt do export to dealers around the world but I have not come across any stores that have catalogs for international personal orders. The official Egyptian web site does have an excellent mail order site called the "Virtual Khan Khalili". They can be found at:
http://interoz.com/khan/
Alternatively, if you do find yourself in Las Vegas (a long way from Virginia Beach!) the Luxor Las Vegas Hotel does import Egyptian goods to sell in their Giza Galleria. The Giza Galleria has everything from real Egyptian papyrus to statues to gold (as well as copies) and you can visit their online catalog (not much of a variety - better in store) at:
http://www.luxor.com/marketplace.html
Enjoy your shopping!
My friend has a child with a cochlea implant. She needs to locate a school or tutor for special needs children. Any suggestions?
I have found a few contacts for you:
The Egyptian Society for Developing Skills of Special Needs Children. Villa 28, Road 252, Maadi Degla. Cairo 11434. Tel 202-754-4516. The Egyptian Society for Developing Skills of Children with Special Needs (Licence 4646/99) announces vacancies for next September, in its therapeutic day program, for 2-10 year old children with autism and/or other development disorders. Our highly structured program is run by a multi-disciplinary team who set an individualized Educational Program (IEP) for each child upon his/her registration, and also identify means of inaugurating these objects without group work, as well as within individual sessions. Our program uses behavior modification techniques (ABA) with activities to promote cognitive development and academic skills in the classroom. In addition, the children receive specialized services such as speech and language therapy, occupational therapy, social skills, training and extra curricular activities including adaptive physical education, swimming, and horse back-riding.
Also: Learning Resource Center Villa 30, Road 252, Maadi Degla. Cairo. Tel/fax: 202-519- 6119. The LRC provides diagnostic and educational services to children and adolescents, who are experiencing learning difficulties and/or developmental problems. These services include assessments, consultations, specialized therapies, and in-service training for schools and/or parents. We are proud to offer quality services with certified and/or licensed professionals, who work together to offer a multi-disciplinary approach to assist children, their families and schools. Our staff represents a variety of disciplines such as physicians, psychologists, occupational therapists, physiotherapists, speech and language pathologists, and education specialists. If needed, we can refer you to consultant physicians whom we have found to be sensitive to the needs of children who have a wide range of learning difficulties. If you wish we can arrange appointments with them and your child through the Center.
International Center for Medical Rehabilitation and Speech Therapy, 22 Al-Fawakeh St. Mohandissen (street next to Chili's Restaurant/beside mosque) Initial visit 100LE, subsequent visits 70LE Hours 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Sun/Tues/Thursday only Tel: 338-0240 Fax: 338-0241 Mobile 021-325-9737.
I have known a few foreigners living in Egypt who have children with developmental difficulties. Unfortunately, the international school, Cairo American College, is very unsympathetic to children who do not help maintain its "high standards", be that a child with a C- average, or someone with learning difficulties. The local schools that cater to foreign children but are run by Egyptians have very different standards to ours and some children find it difficult to adjust. Unfortunately, many families have been forced to return home as their special needs children do not get the appropriate attention. I say this not to discourage you, but to give you an idea of the challenges that someone with a special needs child may face.
Finally, your friend may wish to contact the Counseling Unit at the Community Services Association to see what suggestions they may have. Isis Badawi, Ph.D is the Unit director. The CSA is located in Maadi at #4 Road 21 (near the MGM department store and the train tracks) and the telephone number is: 376-8232, 358-5284, e-mail: [email protected].
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My wife is wheelchair bound. She cannot walk at all. We would like to re-visit Luxor. Last time we were there, we were both fit and well. We need to know what is possible in Luxor in a wheelchair, viz. Karnak, Luxor Museum and Temple, any tombs in Valleys etc. Also, accommodation. Rails in bathroom, wheel in shower etc. (UK)
Egypt is significantly lacking in its disabled and wheelchair access to major tourist sites and hotels. However, having said that, I have noticed many wheelchair and mobile-challenged tourists enjoying the sites. The major temples in Luxor, such as the Luxor Temple and Karnak Temple are built on relatively level sites and do not have many steps. The pyramids of Giza have a narrow paved road that a wheelchair could use to view all three pyramids, although the cars do cut very close. The biggest problem would obviously be the great abundance of sand hampering the wheels. I do believe it would be more problematic for your wife to visit the tombs of the Valley of the Kings which are almost always situated up a cliff or down very steep stairs. The only tomb that is relatively without stairs is Ramses VI, but you would have no guarantee that this tomb would be open during your visit. Plus there are often hundreds of tired, hot, pushy people that can make seeing the tombs a very aggressive experience that many find frustrating.
In Luxor I highly suggest The Movenpick - Crocodile Resort Luxor which does have facilities for wheelchairs. This five-star deluxe hotel has 332 ground-floor bungalow style rooms, two outdoor restaurants and one inside - all accessible in a wheelchair. There is a large grass area under the trees with seats and tables that overlook the Nile. It is only a few minutes (4 kms) to town and I believe has a free shuttle service. I am assuming that transport provided to and from the airport would be able to accommodation a wheelchair. There are special rates for October and superspecial rate for May through September. I have relatives who have stayed at this hotel and found the service and accommodation to be excellent and well above average. This is probably due to the fact that European supervisors and chefs were visible at all times to maintain the high standards (see my comments on hotels in Hotels and Sightseeing). They also recalled seeing tourists in wheelchairs during their stay. You may e-mail the hotel at: [email protected]
The following hotels report that they are wheelchair-friendly:
Golden Tulip Flamenco Cairo
This hotel is located on Gezira Island, between Giza and downtown Cairo. I have not visited this hotel.
Marriott Cairo
The site of the former Summer Palace, this downtown Cairo hotel is one of my personal favorites. The hotel has informed me that it does have 2 wheelchair accessible rooms with specially designed bathrooms. I am a frequet visitor to the Marriott to enjoy a fresh lemonade in the extensive gardens that are tucked away from the outside noise and pollution.
Movenpick Resort Cairo/Pyramids
This bungalow village resort lies at the foot of the pyramids. I do recommend this hotel and have found the Movenpick chain to be reliable. If you don't mind being outside of downtown Cairo, this would be an ideal hotel for peace and quite (the pyramids are approximately 20 minutes taxi ride from downtown).
Heliopolis Sheraton
This hotel is located in a very affluent suburb close to the airport. I think it would be better to stay near the pyramids if you want to be away from the downtown core.
El-Gezirah Sheraton
I find this hotel to have below-average facilities, unfriendly staff and a very business-like feel. I was never very comfortable at this hotel and it has a restrictive location.
Semiramis Inter-Continental
This is one of my favorite downtown hotels and is used by the American Embassy. It is close to the Egyptian Museum, but given the traffic and lack of sidewalks you would need to take a taxi to reach the museum. I find the restaurants and facilities above average, the staff friendly and I do recall seeing wheelchair facilities in the lobby washrooms.
Ramses Hilton
Located on the other side of the Egyptian Museum, I found this hotel to be isolated except for a near-by shopping mall. The lobby is small and the staff were unhelpful when I visited.
Nile Hilton
This is the most popular hotel in Cairo and is located directly adjacent to the Egyptian museum (I think you and your wife would have little difficulty reaching the museum). It has a sweeping lobby, private mall and a small garden area.
Conrad International
The newest Cairo hotels (it opened in February) - I have not visited this one myself. It is beyond the Ramses Hilton but is new and might have better facilities.
Sharm El Sheikh Hilton Residence Resort
Located on the Red Sea.
Movenpick Resort Luxor - Crocodile Island
I mentioned this one above.
Movenpick Resort El Quseir
Located on the Red Sea
Taba Hilton
Located on the Israeli border.
I personally am not a fan of staying in downtown Cairo and would suggest you consider a hotel by the pyramids. Downtown Cairo is very chaotic with its excess of people, traffic and pollution, and you will be the center of attention. It can be a sensory overload for many people (tourists and residents!) The other thing for you to consider is that Cairo does not have sidewalks (except for a few in the center core) and thus you and your wife would be sharing the roads with the insane drivers. A hotel further out would offer you a respite from Cairo and a little peace. No matter where you stay you will be relying on taxis (see my comments on taxis in Hotels and Sightseeing). The best way to survive a taxi ride is to settle on the price before you get in and to ignore the angry protests at the end.
Do you know of any Hot Air Balloon companies in Egypt? (Australia)
There appears to be three hot air balloon companies: Hod Hod Suleiman (tel 370-116) and Balloons Over Egypt (tel: 376-515) in Luxor and Cast Ballooning Egypt (tel: 444-928) in Hurghada (US$180 per person for a 5 hour trip consisting of ride, jeep safari and breakfast). The Luxor companies offer package deals of the Flight + Five Star Breakfast + River Trip for US$300+. Alternatively, your hotel should also be able to arrange or at least assist you in arranging a flight once you are in Egypt.
Some American friends took a flight which consisted of a 3.5 hour tour with a drive out to the pick-up point about 4 a.m. to watch the sun rise over the Valley of the Kings. The highlight was when the balloon put down in the desert to a breakfast of scrambled eggs and champagne, followed by a short boat ride across the Nile to the hotel. I also believe there are shorter morning rides over the Valley of the Kings and Queens.
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I've heard that the pyramids at Giza are not to be climbed on, however I've also heard a little baksheesh to the guard will solve this. Have you heard anything on this? (USA)
Officially, you are not allowed to climb on the pyramids. On most days the security guards will enforce this rule and order you off. You will, however, notice that locals (especially on Friday, which is a holy day,) are usually permitted to climb up a few blocks. The rule came about (probably for a decade now) because of the number of foreigners who would climb the pyramids and go on to promptly fall off on their way down.
If you are bent on climbing a Giza pyramid, it is possible to get somewhat up the third, smallest pyramid, Mycerinus. It is farther away from the other pyramids and has fewer tourists. The guards will usually let you climb up for baksheesh (tip) but be aware that another guard may want in on the action so you may have to tip him too. They probably won't let you climb to the top, but you can get on a few blocks. The Dashur pyramids (a short drive outside of Cairo) receive few visitors and you can usually climb the Red pyramid for baksheesh. Here they all but insist you go up so they can have a tip. To enter the Red pyramid you also must climb quite high on the exterior and that can be quite fun.
Dashur is located about 30 minutes by car from downtown. You would need to negotiate the price before you leave the hotel with a taxi driver - so expect to spend about LE60 or so for the return journey plus waiting time. They key is to negotiate! When I have been to Dashur, the security guard has never bothered to turn on the interior lights - ask him to do so to avoid a harrowing (but adventurous) steep stumble down into the pitch-black. As I mentioned, you have to climb quite far up the exterior of the Red pyramid and the guard will usually let you go around the back to climb up that side too. The Red pyramid is just a few feet smaller than Cheops but more interesting inside, with three rooms - the final only accessible by climbing rickety wooden scaffolding. The Bent pyramid can't be climbed but you can walk around it to look at the crumbling exterior.
Just a note: any of the interiors of the Giza pyramids can be closed without notice, depending on officials' moods. When entering a Giza pyramid, if you don't want a guide (completely useless given that all you do is go down and back up) be sure to forcibly thank and refuse anyone's offers to go down in front of you. On a slow day, this will be the guy who takes your ticket at the entrance of the pyramid. Learn to say "la" (no) or "shukran" (thank you - in this case will be interpreted as a negative). You will be left alone in Dashur.
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What is the average daily cost of eating three meals, breakfast, lunch and dinner in Cairo? (New Jersey, USA)
The answer to your question depends on where and what you are eating. The easiest and most recognizable (for many) food to find is that of the fast food chains. Here is a sample of their prices (they also deliver to hotels):
Pizza Hut Specials Super Supreme: (s) LE10.95, (m) LE18.50, (l) LE23.80 Cheese Lovers Pizza (s) LE9.95, (m) LE16.65 (l) LE21.50 Lasagna LE7.67 Fettuccine Supreme LE8.25
Chili's Grill (American restaurant chain) Bacon Burger LE18.99, Steak Pico LE32.99, Chicken Ranch Sandwich LE18.99 Pepsi (can) LE2.50+
Arby's: Roast Beef Deluxe LE8.95, Baked Potato with Sour Cream LE4.50
If you decide to eat at a hotel (4 or 5 stars): Marriott Hotel: pizza (in gardens) LE25, sandwich (chicken, beef, cheese) plus fries LE17, omelet with fries LE14, spaghetti LE18
Some hotels let you have your choice of selecting from the buffet of only starters for LE12, or choice of main course for LE20, and choice of only dessert for LE12. This can be a good idea because the starter course and desserts are usually plentiful and filling. If you want, take the buffet starter course for LE12 and it will probably be enough until dinner.
Our official meal per diem for Cairo in US$ B$6.62, L$13.83 and D$20.17. That is about LE141 - the present exchange rate for US$1 = EGP 3.47 - although this factors for meals in 5 star hotels (i.e. Marriott). I would estimate you would require less than LE60 per person for breakfast, lunch and dinner (avoiding expensive restaurants). Alternatively, you could buy pita, hommus, fruit, etc. from a small supermarket and eat for less. Depending on the time of the year you visit, you may find you are eating less because of the heat.
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Is it safe for me (a woman) to take my teenage daughter and 9-year-old son? Your site is very helpful and made me stop and rethink my plans. (New Mexico, USA).
I do understand your hesitation in taking your teenage daughter and son to Egypt. However, I do believe, with some awareness and precautions, your visit will be enjoyable for the whole family. I should stress that I have found Cairo (and other cities in Egypt) to be quite safe in terms of personal safety. The worst that usually happens to tourists in terms of crime is being the victim of pick-pocketing.
The easiest way to visit Egypt is with a tour. What makes a tour so ideal is that the hotel arrangements, flights, transportation to/from the airport and sites, and entry into sites, is arranged. This means you have fewer things to worry about when something goes wrong - it is the responsibility of your Egyptian tour guide to sort it all out. I have also discovered that with a group the attention of the locals is divided and there really is strength in numbers. Your teenage daughter will be of great interest for locals, so she should learn to say "la" (no) or "shukran" (thank you - when said alone is meant as a negative) or "halass" (enough - similar to "go away" or "stop").
The tourist sites are safe for you and your children. As long as you remain near her to offer her support should she suddenly feel overwhelmed, things should be fine. Your daughter should also cover her arms and legs to avoid complicating the attention (as should any woman). I know a few teenage girls here and the staring can be intimidating - the locals will most likely not touch foreigners. The tour agent may also be able to wave any offending individuals away.
I think as long as she is aware that she may be the center of attention, that the Egyptian culture is very different from hers and that you will be there to shoo off anyone, she should be able to enjoy the wonders that the pyramids, the Nile, and the many cities of Egypt offer. I have observed that younger children become bored quickly (especially in the heat), so bring along a guide book and take time the night before with your children to read about what you are going to see the next day. The tour guides often explain sites at a more adult level, so your son may feel left out. The guides do, however, often ask the group questions and it can be fun for young children to show off their knowledge.
I found it much more frustrating when I was a teenager dealing with the attention than I do as an adult. If you are approached by schoolchildren it will usually be to test their English out. Not ever person is out to get you - some are genuine but it can be hard to take the time to find out. As long as you are aware of your daughter's feelings, you should be able to enjoy your visit. It really isn't continuously that bad, but sometimes it adds up (especially around the pyramids). I do feel that what you will see does outweigh the negative. I hope this puts your mind at ease.
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For a long time I have been studying Ancient Egypt. I want to be an Egyptologist. This summer I plan to go to Egypt for the first time. Is there anyway that you could find out if there is a type of Egyptology team that will accept me? I'll help them for free and pay my own way just to learn how they work. (Georgia, USA)
This was one of the most interesting questions I have received! I have a few contacts for you (see below) to start with. I do not know of any novice foreign Egyptologists who has been fortunate enough to work as part of an archaeology team. This is partly because the government is fearful of allowing inexperienced individuals onto sites and partly because there is an abundance of workers in Egypt. I also know that the government is highly selective regarding whom they allow to work on their sites and even whom they permit to represent them. Having said that, nothing ventured, nothing gained. There are four archaeology institutes in Cairo:
American Research Center in Egypt (ARCE): 2 Midan Qasr el-Dubara, Garden City, Cairo, Egypt. Tel: 202-354-8239, 202-355-8683 Fax: 202-355-3052 E-mail: [email protected]
Egyptian Antiquities Project: 2 Midan Qasr el-Dubara, Garden City, Cairo, Egypt. Tel: 202-344-8622 (same fax) E-mail: [email protected]
Egyptian Exploration Society: c/o The British Council, 192 el-Nil, Agouza, Cairo, Egypt. Tel: 202-301-0319. Contact: Rosalind Phipps
Netherlands Institute for Archaeology and Arabic Studies: 1 Dr. Mahmud Azmi, Zamalek, Cairo, Egypt Tel: 202-340-0076
You may also wish to contact Dr. Kent Weeks, Egyptologist (or anyone at the Archaeology/Egyptology department) at: The American University in Cairo 113 Qasr el-Aini, PO Box 2511, 11511 Cairo, Egypt. Tel: 202-354-2964 Fax: 202-355-7565.
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Can you send me a recipe (or recipes) for Kushari? Alternatively could you suggest where I might find one?
Kosheri is my favorite Egyptian recipe, although I must confess I have never made it personally (it is easily available and very inexpensive here).
Kosheri -- Lentils and Rice With a Tangy Tomato Sauce*
1 1/3 cup(s) uncooked brown or white rice.
2/3 lbs.lentils
1 1/3 Tablespoon(s) vegetable oil, divided.
2/3 Tablespoon crushed garlic.
1 1/3 can(s) of tomato sauce.(16-ounce)
1/3 cup(s) water.
1/6 cup(s) vinegar.
2/3 medium onion.
Preperation:
Cook rice according to directions. Rinse lentils and put them in a pot, covering them with
water and bring to a boil. Then simmer on a low heat until almost all water is absorbed and
lentils are well cooked. Add extra water if longer time is needed. To make the sauce, first
saut� the garlic in 1/2 of the oil until golden. Add all of the tomato sauce and simmer 10-15
minutes. Add water and vinegar and bring to a boil. Remove from heat immediately and add salt
to taste. Finally, slice onion in thin, small pieces and saut� in the remaining half of the
oil until brown and crispy.
The dish should be arranged as a layer of lentils (on the bottom), followed by a layer of
rice, then another layer of lentils and another layer of rice. Sprinkle the onions and the
sauce on top before serving.
I have also added a few web sites which have easy-to-follow Egyptian recipes.
Web Sites:
The Middle Eastern Cook Book
The Egyptian Recipe Page (see above for Kushari)
By Far: Egyptian Recipes Home Page
Diana's Links To International Recipes
How can I learn to pronounce the Arabic words? (New York, USA)
To learn a little more about Egyptian Arabic, I suggest you visit these web sites: (see above for links)
http://carlton.innotts.co.uk/~ukindia/zar1.htm
www.arabic2000.com/arabic/public
www.playandlearn.org
http://eleaston.com/languages.html
Learning to pronounce Arabic is probably the toughest part about studying Arabic. The various guttural sounds are intimidating at first and odds are a local will look confusingly at you during your first few attempts, so don't give up. The words I have listed in Say It In Arabic are spelled phonetically, so you can use this as a rough guide. Here is the pronunciation guide supplied by the Community Services Association Arabic course:
B: as in 'boy' or 'book'
D: as in 'david'
F: as in 'frank' or 'full' or 'fly'
G: as in 'get' or 'go'
H: as in 'how' or 'he'
K: as in 'key' or 'kilo'
L: as in 'low' or 'land'
M: as in 'meat' or 'me' or 'man'
N: as in 'near' or 'no' or 'net'
R: as in 'run' or 'road' or 'river', is a trilled 'r' as in Spanish or Italian
S: as in 'mass' or 'sand', never in 'his' or 'hers'
T: as in 'town'
W: as in 'wool' or 'wallet' or 'water'
Y: as in 'year' or 'you'
Z: as in 'zoo'
KH: equivalent to the Scottish 'loch'
GH: similar to 'KH' but with more vibrating of the vocal cords
Q: like an English 'k' but softer and from the back of the mouth
J: pronounced 'zh', similar to measure
': glottal stop, like 'tt' in Manhattan
AA: as in 'sand' or as in 'dam' or as in 'far'
A: as in 'aa' but shorter
EE: as in 'ate' or as in 'gate' or as in 'pain'
E: as in 'let' or as in 'pen'
II: as in 'meet' or as in 'feet'
I: as in 'me' or as in 'big'
OO: as in 'boat' or as in 'coat'
O: as in 'got'
UU: as in 'wool' or as in 'too'
U: as in 'put'
I read your advice about woman traveling alone. I am going to Egypt and I want to knew if it is better to take a tour to see different places in Egypt. What would you advise me? (Mexico)
I would recommend that you visit Egypt with a tour group. Although Carolina and I have traveled around by ourselves, we did so because I live here and know Egypt. It was still quite challenging and we were constantly harassed because we were single females. In my experience, Egypt is one of the safest countries in terms of personal safety for women. It can be tiresome having to ward off the locals, but there are almost no accounts of violence that I am aware of.
There are three main drawbacks from traveling alone: 1)you become a prime target for attention when you are by yourself; 2) there are some parts of Egypt, particularly Upper Egypt including Kom Ombo, Philae, Esna, Edfu, Valley of the Kings, where it is hard to access the sites without a group. For example, the Valley of the Kings is quite far inland and requires finding transportation across the Nile as well as negotiations with a taxi driver to take you to the site; 3) things often go wrong here, so it helps to have arrangements already taken care of (such as getting through customs, transportation to/from airports and hotels, entrance to sites, etc.) as well as someone who can solve those problems. To tour Egypt as a single woman, I believe that a group is the most comfortable and easiest way to do so.
Joining a group by yourself is also a great way to meet new people (I have friends all over the world I met during a group tour of different countries) and you won't feel left out. I believe Egypt is still the most wonderful country to visit. Some people (including myself) get overwhelmed by the harassment, especially at the pyramids, but if you are prepared for it, it can be more enjoyable.
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It is possible that my husband may be transferred to Egypt. To the resort area of Taba to be precise. My husband, who is a General Manager in a hotel, is inquiring with his company regarding the working aspect and I am researching the living part. What would life be like for us in what seems to be a destination resort area in the making? Please let me know if you know anything about the Taba area. From the information I have gathered so far on the Net, Taba resort area is being 'stamped' out of the ground and we would probably live 'on property.' This of course would have good and bad sides. I suppose what I am most concerned with is the proximity of Israel and it's volatile relationship with the Arab neighbors. I also wonder what my life would be like in a place where there is no community other than resort hotels. We have no children, just pets (dog, cat, cockatoo) and they would of course come along. I have been to Cairo and surrounding area many times, but that was 27 years ago. I have spent time in Yemen (10 years ago) and Saudi. My husband however has never been to a Middle Eastern country. Let me know if you have any thoughts on that.
From reading your e-mail, I get the feeling that you are aware of the challenges (proximity to Israel, lack of community) that someone living and working in Taba would face. While this knowledge does not always make things easier, it does take away the element of surprise!
I have not been to Taba, mostly because I loathe travelling in Egypt. I cannot recall any air-related tragedies in my memory, but I did experience first-hand a near crash and aborted take-off going from Aswan to Cairo. I also find the airport experience to be unsettling with all the guns and hostile security. To reach Taba from Cairo, you must fly to Sharm el Sheikh (1 hour) and then take another flight to Taba (1 hour) (so you are travelling in a 'V'). The catch is that there are only about 2 flights to and from Taba per week and these are subject to cancellation (thus having the potential to strand tourists) but also, last time I checked, the flights are a day apart, so tourists must be willing to spend a week in Taba. It is about a 12-hour drive from Cairo, but it must be done in convoys or by police escort for protection. Although the bandits/general-guys-with-guns are more likely to be in Upper Egypt (between Cairo and Aswan or Luxor and below), it still wouldn't be good to break down in the Sinai or drive into a landmine, so the convoys or escorts are necessary.
I was surprised to learn that there is more than one hotel in Taba. The Taba Hilton is the only hotel that is advertised in Egypt, but a travel agent told me about the Helnan and the Novotel, although she recommended the Hilton. I know people who have stayed at the Hilton so have some knowledge of Taba second-hand. The feeling I got was that the hotel, located on a cliff, has little in the way of things to do, so it is not a great tourist destination. The diving and beaches are poor compared to Sharm el Sheikh or, to a lesser degree, Hurghada. Both Sharm and Hurghada have good diving sites on the Red Sea and have superior resorts with beaches and entertainment. Also, Sharm and Hurghada cater to tourists, both foreign and local, while Taba has no particular reputation.
The other thing I have found whenever I brought up Taba with Egyptians was the intense anti-Israeli hostility. Taba is considered a playground for Israelis who want to get away from home as it is possible to walk across the border with minimal fuss, so it is a prime foreign destination for Israelis. This presents a dichotomy for Egyptians who are fiercely proud of anything Egyptian but hate the idea of Israelis 'tainting' their land. Although many Egyptians hate the Israelis, it really is more bark than bite. Egyptian newspapers trash Israel on a daily basis with page-long reports on the 'Holocaust myth', how Israel lost every conflict with Egypt (some creative history there!) and how Israelis have brutally killed Egyptian soldiers in every conflicts. The average shop keeper will tell you fanciful stories about Israelis and boldly predict how one day Egyptians will kill all the Israelis because 'there are more of us than them'. The Israelis seem to keep to their own business and there is no concern of any physical hostilities actually flaring up between the two countries.
So, in my opinion, Taba is considered an Israeli destination where Israeli tourists visit, Israeli entrepreneurs set up shops and restaurants and a place that isn't as developed as the Red Sea resorts. I think any hotel hoping to break into the markets currently occupied by the Red Sea resorts would face a large challenge.
I can only talk about working in Cairo and the community there. To begin with, the Red Sea area is very different from Cairo (think New York versus Palm Springs or Cambridge versus London). There is less to see and do and it seems like endless miles of desert. The resorts are usually all clumped together on the coastline with small nearby towns. In Cairo there is a huge American population and the US Embassy is the largest in the world with 500 American staff (in comparison, the Brits have 30, the Canadians 18 and the Australians 5). The community in Cairo is very odd as it is basically the American Embassy on their own and everyone else trying to find their way. There are clubs for diving and activities like that, but it isn't a very friendly community. I think, however, Taba would be very isolating with only a small community of Israelis. Living on the hotel property is very common for senior management and would probably be the best for you as I can't imagine the real estate in Taba would be very good.
The Community Services Association (202-358-5284; [email protected]) offers orientation services to Cairo and I would suggest that you pick up a copy of 'Cairo: The Practical Guide' published by the American University in Cairo Press (LE40) for a great guide on living in Cairo and a feel for living in Egypt. I can also suggest that you or your husband speak to Ted Cookson at Egypt Panorama Tours (202-359-0200; [email protected]). Ted is an American who has set up a thriving travel agency in Cairo and should be able to advise you about his experiences in Taba.
On average, there is no safety threats or harassment against Americans (or foreigners who look like them) and the local Egyptians appear not to harbor any ill-will. There are, however, periodic terrorist threats against American and British installations that occur about 3 times a year. These are sometimes issued as fatwas by a Mufti or are simply rumblings by a terrorist faction. Since the Luxor Massacre a few years ago there has been no terrorist activity carried out against foreigners in Egypt. The Red Sea, being an hour flight away, feels and see even less of these issues. Crimes against the person are almost non-existent although in the past two months there was a brutal rape of a tourist on the beach at night in Sharm and a rape in the resident area of Maadi in Cairo.
If you read around my web site you'll probably get a feel for the challenges that you may face working and living in Egypt. I am a petite, blonde woman, and the harassment can drive me indoors for days. I do not feel physically threatened, but the comments, leers and general 'bad thoughts' can get overwhelming. Cairo is almost a world away from Saudi and its Arab neighbors. To begin with, Egypt values its tourists, so has, for the most part, a better attitude towards foreigners. It also has a good tolerance towards it Coptic populations and has the best women's laws (rape sheild laws and divorce laws) in the region.
Whether you are working or living in Egypt, the key is to be flexible and accept that things are done differently, work ethic is often absent, hotels are not well run, etc. In Cairo we are able to go to local supermarkets that bring in Western-style products - I am not sure about Taba and I would suspect you would have to do your food shopping (other than buying food staples) across the border. I do recall my friend boasting about the good shopping on the Israeli side, so this may be the norm for people living in Taba.
Bringing in your animals is an easy process. You will need to have all their vaccinations including rabies given within one month and a physical check-up 48 hours before their departure. We will only fly our animals (2 cats and a dog) on KLM as they have a good reputation for transporting animals. They are responsible for ensuring that the airplane hold in which the animals fly is oxygenated and heated as well as air conditioned if the plane temporarily stops on the ground. They also have a pet hotel in Amsterdam for transiting. Of course, KLM is only as good as its local staff and in the last move with my animals through Cairo, 2 out of the 3 were injured and the dog's cage was destroyed (we still are trying to find out what happened). There is a great vet in Cairo, but I have no idea about Taba.
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