Playing In The World's Largest Sandbox

EATING & DRINKING: Egyptian food is a colorful melange of Lebanese, Turkish, Syrian, Greek and French cuisine, modified according to local tastes. What you ate back home in a Middle Eastern restaurant may differ from what you order here. This is probably a result of Middle Eastern food evolving to suit Western palates and/or because the restaurants may be serving dishes according to their particular areas.

Egyptian food is often very salty but rarely spicy. Dishes tend to be simple and vary according to what is in during the season. There are three staples of the Egyptian meal: bread (aish), full and taamiya. Served with all meals, aish shaami (bread made from white flour) and aish baladi (bread made from wholewheat flour) are sure to arrive at your table, regardless of whether you are having a local or foreign meal. Sometimes compared to pita bread, aish is a chewier and puffier version. Fuul simply consists of broad beans mixed with spices and salt. You will find them boiled or mashed or stuffed in an aish baladi to make a sandwich. Tamiyya, a cousin of falafel, is a fried patty of ground broad beans, parsley, coriander leaves, mixed with spices.

Make an evening of Egyptian food and order a mezza for your table. Mezza is another word for appetizers, but I find them large enough for a meal. Dip your aish in the babaghannuugh (smoked mashed eggplant with garlic and oil), hummus (chickpea paste) and tahina (a paste made from sesame seeds). Next sample the hot or cold wara inab, or vine leaves stuffed with meat and rice. Finally, move on to the torshi (pink vegetables marinated in vinegar) and tabulah (salad of parsley, tomato, onion, lime juice, oil and bulgur wheat).

There is no shortage of meat dishes in the Egyptian diet. Lamb kebab or kofta (minced patties with spice) are very popular and can be accompanied by kushari, a dish of rice, pasta and lentils served with tomato sauce. Chicken is of the spit-roast kind, but pigeon is a favorite, either served with freek (spicy stuffing) or in a tajine, stewed with onion, tomato and rice in a pot. Fish, fresh from the Mediterranean and Red Sea, is widely available. You will probably be invited to pick your own fish from the ice bar before it is grilled. You will also come across calamari, grouper, and shrimps. Most fish is served with french fries and salad.

Although vegetables are a part of the Egyptian diet, the concept of vegetarianism borders on insanity to most locals. My protests that I am a NABATAYAH (vegetarian) or that ANA MAKULSH LAHMA WI SAMAK (I don't eat meat and fish) are routinely greeted with blank or even disappointed stares. Still on the search for a decent vegetarian meal, I usually end up with boiled vegetables, artfully arranged on my plate.

Egyptians love sweets and there is no shortage of delicious pastry shops around. You will inevitably stumble across a pastry shop while out roaming the streets. They are everywhere and are easily recognized by their glitzy interior, often out of place with the surroundings. If you are invited to an Egyptian's home, you will most likely get to sample basbousa, a rich pastry of semolina, honey and nuts. Other popular deserts are baklava (flaky filo pastry with honey and nuts), kunafa (shredded wheat-like pastry with honey), and Om Ali (corn cake soaked in rich cream, sugar, raisins, coconut and cinnamon, served hot). Ice cream and particularly fresh fruit are alternative choices for those who desire something less rich and sugary.

Most locals consume bottled water or soft drinks with their meal (you can get 'diet' drinks here), although they are usually not pre-chilled. Tea and Turkish coffee(AHWA) are taken after meals. Turkish coffee, served in a tiny cup, is a very acquired taste, so do ask for it sweet! Western coffee, otherwise known as "American", will be Nescafe. Another Egyptian speciality is karkade, a burgundy infusion of hibiscus. If you are in Aswan or Luxor, you will probably be greeted with a cold glass of this drink. Try the lemon juice: it is refreshing, and not too sweet or sour.

Alcohol can be obtained in Egypt, except for Middle Egypt and the Western Desert oases. Most deluxe hotels have bars and serve alcohol, although not on the Prophet Mohammed's birthday, and often not during Ramadan. I have also seen some hotel's refuse to serve anyone under 21 years of age. Beer is the most widely available type of alcohol. Stella is pretty much the only beer around, although you may luck out and find imported beer (usually Heinekin)in some hotels. Egyptian wines are not very good, and most people avoid them. The most common are Omar Khayyam (red) and Cru des Ptolemees (white).

I would be hard pressed to suggest one definitive Egyptian restaurant as there are so many popular ones. Eating at the Oriental (the title given to most Egyptian restaurants) restaurant in a deluxe hotel will pretty much guarantee you a good meal. Arabesque (6 Kasr el Nil, Tel: 574-7898) and Felfela (15 Hoda Shaarawi St., Tel: 392-2833) are two well-recommended ones. Egyptians eat dinner very late, around 10 or 11 p.m., except during Ramadan when sunset is the time for feasting (you will be hard pressed to find a place to eat lunch, although good hotels will have one restaurant open), but don't let that put you off going to 7 p.m.

When you get here, look around. Have you seen the McDonald's yet?! You will either be horrified or thrilled that McDonald's, Arby's, Pizza Hut, KFC, and Baskin Robbins are available here. All deliver (yes, McDonald's too!) on the back of a motorcycle and there are times when this is a small luxury! Next time you are facing the Sphinx, turn around and spot the Pizza Hut/KFC/Baskin Robbins outside the gate. Actually, this is the perfect place to gaze at the Sphinx, free from pesky merchants, camel owners and men with whistles (who have absolutely no authority except for a keen desire to part you from your money).

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There are also a surprisingly good variety of international ethnic restuarants:

I would be remiss if I didn't mention the sheesha, or waterpipe. Just as fuul is a staple of the Egyptian meal, the sheesha is a huge part of the cafe life. It is usually a major no-no for women to smoke sheeshas, except it is now being done in a few places like the Nile Hilton, Le Pacha 1901, and tourist cafes in the Khan el Khalili. Tobacco is mixed with molasses, producing a distinctive taste. Apple tobacco (tuffaah) is a little more palatable for foreigners. If you don't smoke, you probably won't like this. A 'hubbly-bubbly' is a waterpipe used for smoking hashish.

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FUN!

There is no shortage of things to keep you busy, regardless of whether you are a visitor or a resident. I was once told that if you are bored in Egypt, then you are a boring person. I'll admit that it is a little facetious, but my point is that apart from the incredible travel opportunities throughout Egypt, there is still much to do that will keep you from bouncing off of the walls. Here are a few general ideas:

ARCHAEOLOGY: Whether you are an amateur or a professional, there can be no greater place than Egypt for an archaeologist. There are two organizations that hold lectures and organize field trips:

BEAUTY SALONS - HENNA: Egyptian salons provide the full range of treatment, including facials and manicures, often at prices significantly cheaper than in North America. You will, however, have to shop around and it is best to ask for suggestions of reliable places. At the very least, a trip to a salon will provide you with a glimpse into Egypt's feminine culture. My favorite is the body henna tattoos which, for a few LE, allow you to bring out a different side of yourself. At the salon an artist will draw a design on your body, then retrace the pattern with a thick paste. After an hour, wash the area and you will have a black tattoo for about 3 weeks (a detailed anklet cost me LE20). This procedure does not involve penetrating the skin and is actually very beautiful. If you look around you may see women wearing henna tattoos around their ankles. Brides will often have elaborate henna tattoos across their whole body.

BELLY-DANCING: If you take a cruise down the Nile, be it a dinner boat or an overnight cruise, odds are you will be treated to a belly-dancing show. Their sequinned outfits leave little to the imagination, although if you look closely, you will see that the dancers are actually wearing body stockings over their midriffs. The dancing is full of sexuality and eroticism, yet well enough packaged so as not to offend. There are bigger productions staged at most hotels, such as the Nile Hilton and the Cairo Sheraton, which include a meal and a hefty cover charge. You will probably be just as happy to sit through a short presentation and thus be able to say you have seen it.

CINEMAS: Cinemas here show both Arabic and foreign movies, but Western movies are heavily edited, so be sure to check the movie out again back home. Be prepared to take in a flick in a seedy, mostly male atmosphere, where anything remotely suggestive sets everyone off. English movies will be subtitled in Arabic, so expect a lot of chatting to go on and drown out the soundtrack. See listings in the Egyptian Gazette for showtimes. I must admit that I have never been to a movie here, so am going on what I've been told. Not to put anyone off, but the reason for this is that while strolling though the Maadi Grand Mall, I had to step over massive pools of blood outside the movie cinema where someone had clearly been stabbed not more than minutes before I happened by. While standing there in shock, I was amazed to watch an attendant arrive and nonchalantly sweep the blood under the nearest obstacle: a cardboard stand-up advertisement for "The Mask of Zorro". Talk about special effects! Here are the leading cinemas:

CYBER CAFES: The Internet has come to Egypt! These popular cafes are great for travellers to check e-mail or contact friends and family back home, usually for very reasonable prices (although expect things to be very slow):
DISCO & NIGHTCLUBS: To Egyptians there is a clear difference between a disco, where you dance to music, and a nightclub, where have dinner and take in a show. Call first to see if there is a couple-only requirement and to see if there is a cover charge.
DIVING/SNORKELLING: Diving and snorkelling in the Red Sea brings big business to Egypt. Flights from Europe fly tourists directly to Sharm el Sheikh without ever going near Cairo or Upper Egypt. The Red Sea diving is said to rival that of Australia's Great Barrier Reef, but even the novice can don a snorkel and fins to check out the marine life. There are many diving schools and clubs in Cairo and at most resorts and you can even earn a PADI Open Water Diver certification in about a week. Scuba Plus (World Trade Centre) has a good reputation as do clubs like the British Sub-Aqua club and Cairo Divers' Club. Sharm el Sheikh and Hurghada offer some of the world's best diving sites and have good clubs (please see Hotels and Sightseeing for more information).

The Egyptian government has finally recognized the need for protection of the Red Sea Parks. You can expect a fine if you are caught removing coral or other materials. Please respect these rules:

You will probably notice that your guide/boat driver ignores the above, starting by dropping the anchor into the coral. Do not take this as an invitation to violate the rules yourself.

If you are diving, consider the following:

HEALTH CLUBS:

HORSEBACK RIDING: Riding in the desert around the pyramids is an experience that is hard to top, so I have only listed stables that are located by the pyramids. You should pay LE20 per person (not per hour) once you have returned and you will be given a guide on horseback (this is mandatory unless you own the horse), so tip him between LE5-10. You can lease and purchase horses if you intend to ride frequently, however I have heard about horses suddenly dying (no refunds). Horses are clearly underfed, but they should not have sores on them (if they do, move on to another stable). During the hottest summer months, Arabs from all over the Middle East descend on Cairo to escape the heat of their native lands. One common practice of the rich is to buy a horse and ride it into the desert until it drops dead. Don't be shocked to see horse carcasses among the dunes. The following are located behind the Sphinx:
MUSIC/DANCE: The Cairo Opera House (Tel: 341-2926) is world-renowned as the home of Aida, and is host to both prestigious Arabic and Western classical music performances, international dance troupes (such as the Bolshoi Ballet), and of course, opera. It is home to the Cairo Symphony Orchestra and the Cairo Ballet Company. Expect tickets to sell out quickly. Look for listings in Egypt Today or check with the box office. The dress is fairly formal and men should wear a jacket and tie.

FELUCCA RIDES: Taking a felucca ride is very romantic, be it in Cairo or Aswan. These wind-powered boats rest low in the water and give you a more personal perspective of the Nile than that offered from the bank or a cruise ship. Hourly rates go between LE20 and LE25 for the boat (not per person). Hiring a felucca by Sultana in Maadi provides one of the longer rides with fewer obstacles, but you can also find feluccas near the Semiramis InterContinental and Le Meridien, downtown.

NILE DINNER CRUISES: Whether you are a tourist or you live here, you will enjoy the Nile dinner cruises. I hate to say it, but Cairo looks so much better at night. The food is usually of a better standard, the service attentive and you will be treated to a show from a belly-dancer or whirling dervish. For special occasions, rent a private room on the top level. I can recommend the M/S Scarabee (private room LE100 per person, but your meal will be factored into this, so eat well). Other good dinner cruises are the Marriott's Nile Maxium and the Oberoi's Nile & Golden Pharaohs (which are a treat for the eyes - Tel: 570-1000).

SWIMMING POOLS: During the summer months, a nice cool dip becomes more and more tantalizing. A membership at a hotel pool is your best bet: El Gezirah Sheraton, Cairo Marriott and Atlas Zamelek all are accessible to non-hotel guests. Another option is the Heliopolis Sporting Club (Tel: 671-414) which has a large pool.

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SHOPPING:

Egypt is a virtual shopper's heaven. There are few other places which offer such romantic, magical and mystical souvenirs to take home, be it a papyrus print of Tutankhamun, scented oils to entice, your name in gold hieroglyphics, or a pyramid-shaped pen holding snow globe! I will refrain from going into too much detail about the various shopping areas, as you will not be wanting for places to buy treasures. There are numerous suqs, bazaars and markets to chose from. In Maadi, the best place to shop is Road 9 and you are sure to find everything you need, from souvenirs to food to services. Road 9 caters to both locals and foreigners and offers the best prices around. I bring all of my visitors to this location and I feel confident about the cost of my purchases.

This is the best time to learn Arabic numbers if you don't want to be overcharged. Likewise, in suqs, bazaars and markets, it is expected that you will bargain. By knowing what you COULD pay, you may just be able to avoid being taken for a ride. I have briefly outlined some of the treasures that can be found in Egypt along with the approximate cost I would pay if I were shopping down Road 9. Outside of Maadi and in any tourist sites you will naturally pay more, but hopefully using this guide you won't be robbed of a good deal.

APPLIQUE WORK: Intricately decorated cushion covers (LE40), bedspreads, wall-hangings and even tents lend a riot of color to your home.

CAMELS: Okay, I couldn't resist. After all, offers of camels have been made for my hand in marriage (my best offer so far was 8 camels)! Alas, these offers have never been made directly to me, but to some poor unsuspecting foreign male who happens to be standing near me. So if I want a camel, I guess it will involve a trip to the camel market. Expect to pay about LE1,000 - LE2,000, with females costing more. If you can't figure out how to bring one of these guys home in your suitcase, you could settle for camel-skin products, such as wallets (LE12), coasters (LE10), picture frames (LE20) and photo albums (around LE50).

CARPETS: Never cheap, oriental carpets are beautiful, colorful and can light up a room. The simple Bedouin carpets can sell for around LE50 for a 1 X 1 1/2 meter size. I have found a beautiful carpet that fits perfectly in my dining room for LE600 -- and that was a real deal.

COPPER: Look out for the beautiful, but garish copper-etched or painted pictures with scenes of the Khan el Khalili or a camel market. These will grow on you if you take the time to truly admire the workmanship. A copper picture with silver plating (4" x 6") goes for about LE60, even less if you omit the silver plating. Copper cookware is a popular and inexpensive buy, with a large casserole coming in at around LE100.

ETHNIC CLOTHING: The loose tunics that you see the men and women wearing are called galabiyas. If you are taking a cruise, odds are you will be encouraged to buy one for the costume party. Afterwards, you can always use it as a nightshirt. Expect to pay between LE20-30 for the simpler designs. Carolina bargained to the death for a beautiful large white lace shawl and walked away with it for LE20.

GOLD: Very few places can beat Egypt for gold. You will only find it in 18 karat or more, so although it is of better quality than what you will find back home, it still comes across as expensive. As the government monitors the weight and purity of gold, you are guaranteed a good-quality product . Merchants will mix in copper to create a reddish hue and silver for a more flat appearance, but are careful not to affect the karats. You will probably not be able to leave Egypt without a pendant of your name in hieroglyphics. Expect to pay between LE170 and LE200 for 18 karat gold. Rings will cost between LE 130 and LE 170, depending on the design and size (hieroglyphic writing or filigree are lovely). Chains are inexpensive, and are a necessity for the many exotic pendants you can purchase. Choose a design of your name in Arabic, or a pendant of a scarab beetle, Tutankhamun's mask, a pyramid, Nefertiti, an ankh, etc. You can find bracelets that alternate designs: ankhs and cartouches, for example. Adding semiprecious stones such as turquoise, amber, jade or onyx makes for a unique piece. All gold is sold by the gram weight. Here is an indication of what they may cost per gram (but don't forget to factor in workmanship):

LEATHER: Leather is of excellent quality, and can be custom-made or purchased from the rack. Handbags (LE60- LE90), wallets (LE30) and briefcases (LE200) are a bargain. But the best deal is the leather jackets and coats. A man's bomber jacket cost around LE250, while I recently purchased a custom-made floor-length coat for LE500.

LITHOGRAPHS: David Roberts' breathtaking lithographs of Ancient Egypt are sure to bring back fond memories. Originals range from LE300 to LE5,000, but you can pick up a collection of 10 reproductions ready to be framed for LE100. Livre de France (36 Kasr el Nil, Tel: 393-5512) has a good selection.

PAPYRUS: Everyone will insist theirs is not banana leaves and will most likely offer up a photocopied scrap of paper declaring it to be genuine papyrus (real papyrus will not crumble when rolled). You can find just about any design, and I have even seen photographs reproduced on papyrus. If you have a large family, consider doing a "family tree" on papyrus with each name in cartouches. A 4" x 6" will start around LE5, depending on the design and the amount of paint used. In November, check out the papyrus calendars (LE10) which can be framed once you are done.

PERFUMES: Don't leave Egypt without purchasing the exquisite essential oils. Nowadays you can get any of the popular scents, knocked off from the big Western designers. It is fun to sample each one on your wrist. Men are not spared - you can get your favorite scents as well. Try Lotus Flower, Cleopatra's Kiss or Tutankhamun, and ask for the story behind the scent. You should be paying LE1 per gram, and don't let the merchant convince you that you that bottles under 50 grams do not exist. An accompaniment to your perfume is the delicate glass bottles, beautiful to behold. These are extremely inexpensive, with bottles starting from LE5 for a 5 gram container.

POTTERY: Pottery abounds in Egypt, from the practical to the amusing. Painted figurines of village life (LE5 per figure) or pots depicting 3-D village life (LE160 for a large pot with stand) are a great conversation piece.

SILVER: I am constantly amazed by the beauty of silver in Egypt. You will have to seek out a silver store as gold stores don't sell silver. The jewellery is either ethnic or copies of the pharonic designs found in gold stores. Silver cartouches cost LE20, compared to the gold for LE65. Other bargains are bracelets of alternating cartouches and ankhs (LE15), pendants of various sorts (usually LE12), filigree broaches (LE50-LE70), keychains (LE35), filigree bracelets (LE65), and elaborate filigree necklaces (LE50), to name a few. You can also purchase items such as napkin rings (LE20 - LE45), and coffee and tea sets.

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