Egypt: The Practical Guide

PASSPORTS, VISAS AND IDENTIFICATION CARDS
As a tourist, you will need to carry your passport with you to register at hotels, change money and prove your identity. All visitors must hold passports that are valid for at least six months beyond the intended date of entry into Egypt. It is a good idea to keep a photocopy of the identity page of your passport in your suitcase and leave a copy at home. This will help facilitate the process should you lose your passport and require a replacement passport from your Embassy. If you are in Egypt for longer than 2 weeks or are travelling extensively throughout the country, it is advisable that you register with your Embassy. This free service will help your Embassy reach you in case of an emergency or crisis.

Contact the Egyptian Embassy in your own country to verify if you will require a visa to enter Egypt. Chances are you will. Obtain the necessary tourist visa form from the Egyptian Embassy, and either turn up in person or mail the completed form, a passport-size photo, your passport and a fee (cheque or money order), and a registered SAE (for those using the mail to collect your passport), and you should get a visa in approximately 24 hours. The cost for your visa depends on your nationality. Some tourists apply for visas at Cairo, Luxor and Hurghada airports (check with the Embassy to ensure that your nationality may do this) upon arrival. The fee for this is US$15 in cash only. Both the single-entry and multiple-entry visa entitle you to remain in Egypt for one month. The latter permits you to exit and re-enter the country within this time period. The visa is usually valid for three months from the issue date, so it is best not to apply for it too early (this does not mean you may stay in the country for three months). Foreigners intending to reside in Egypt usually obtain a tourist visa and apply for a residence visa once they arrive in Egypt. Check with the Egyptian Embassy to confirm what is required for a business or residence visa.

At Travel Document Systems you can download an Egyptian visa. Please note that this service is designed for American citizens. Do check with your nearest Egyptian Embassy for updated visa requirements.

If you or your children are dual nationals, you should be aware of difficulties you may face while travelling abroad. The Egyptian government considers children born to Egyptian fathers to be Egyptian citizens first and foremost. As a result, immigration officials may require written proof that the father has given his permission for the children to leave Egypt. Males of military age may also be asked to complete military service, although this is not common. They will, however, be required to show an exemption certificate before they can leave the country (obtained from the Ministry of Defense). Foreign women married to Egyptians will not require the permission of their husband to leave Egypt as long as they have a valid Egyptian visa. If the visa expires, however, a woman will require evidence of her husband's consent to leave the country. If you have any questions concerning your status as a dual national in Egypt, contact the Egyptian Embassy. Do remember that as a dual national the ability of your non-Egyptian country to intervene on your behalf is limited.

Egypt will permit you to enter the country with an Israeli stamp (or other evidence of having been to Israel) in your passport. Virtually all other Arab countries will not allow you to enter (or if they do you will encounter, at best, considerable delays) if you have been to Israel. You may request that an Israeli visa and entry stamp are issued on paper separate to your passport. However, you will encounter a problem if you intend to cross overland from Israel to Egypt as the Egyptian entry stamp at Taba or Rafah in the Sinai will alert anyone that you have been to Israel. The best solution is to make Israel your last stop on your tour of the Middle East.

Residence cards are issued to foreigners who can demonstrate that they have a reason to reside in Egypt. The card identifies you as a resident of Egypt and permits discounts of up to 50% on tourist sites, travel and hotel rates. But be warned that the card may take many, many weeks to obtain, especially during the summer months. Tourist sites do recognize student status and discounts may be obtained if you can prove that you are a student. I strongly recommend the International Student Indentity Card (ISIC), available at most travel agencies and universities. This card is recognized world-wide and can be used for numerous discounts in travel, accommodation, sightseeing and even food.

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AIRLINES: Visitors to Egypt must reconfirm their flight by contacting the airline office at the point where you intend to resume your journey at least 72 hours before the departure of your flight. Failure to do so may result in the cancellation of your reservation. Some airlines enforce this rule strictly, so unless you enjoy finding a nasty surprise at the airport, it is best to pick up the phone and reconfirm. Someone I know returning to New York on EgyptAir did not reconfirm until 24 hours before departure and his reservation was cancelled. It took numerous phone calls, a visit to the EgyptAir office (a chaotic place, made all the more so when a bus crashed outside the office and everyone rushed out to gawk) and a meeting with the manager to get his seat back. Below are some of the Cairo telephone numbers for the major airlines:

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YOUR EMBASSY
Your Embassy is available to assist you in case of an emergency. However, there is a very clear distinction between what most Embassies can do for you, and what they can't:(based on text from "Bon Voyage But..." 1998)

SOME EMBASSIES IN EGYPT:

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TRAVEL ADVISORIES:
Travel advisories are issued by certain governments as guidelines for their nationals who visit other countries. They are a valuable source of information regarding the current situation of a specific country and we recommend that you read what your government is saying about Egypt before you plan your vacation.

U.S.A.
U.S. State Department

Canada
Foreign Affairs Canada

U.K.
Foreign & Commonwealth Office

Australia
Department of Foreign Affairs & Trade

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CRIME
Few foreigners will be the victim of a crime while in Egypt. For the most part, the streets are relatively safe, providing you take the obvious precautions. It is best to stick to designated tourist sites and avoid travelling alone. I will be the first to admit that, in my experience, Cairo is very safe compared to other big cities around the world (see Women's Issues for more information). The biggest threat is usually pickpockets who practice their skills on unsuspecting tourists. Invest in a money belt or pouch and leave your valuables in your locked suitcase. Egypt is very proud of its low crime rate. However, some people have mentioned that they have been encouraged by the authorities to report personal items that have been stolen, as lost. The police are in high profile in Cairo and treat foreigners carefully and with respect. This doesn't mean though, that foreigners may commit a crime without consequence: they react harshly to foreigners who leave the scene of a crime, or when drugs or espionage are suspected. If you do fin d yourself in trouble, contact your Embassy immediately or insist that this be done for you. The Municipal Police are responsible for addressing all crimes while the Traffic Police are usually seen in the road attempting to add some semblance of order to the traffic. Both wear uniforms that are khaki or black in the winter, and white in the summer (although the Traffic Police wear striped cuffs). If you require assistance or need to report a crime, it is best to seek out the Tourist Police, with whom you have a better chance of finding someone who speaks English. They can be found at just about any tourist site and are easily recognizable by their armband which proclaims them to be a Tourist Police. The one thing you will quickly note is that the police openly carry firearms, usually AK-47s. This can be quite disconcerting as they tend to not only to brandish them about, but they lean on them too. Often you will have to walk in front of a police officer casually holding his weapon at the ready.

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TERRORISM
Egypt's tourist trade was dealt a serious blow with the savage, calculating attacks on tourists in 1997. Although many countries experience terrorism within their borders, the difference in Egypt is that the focus is not on government officials, but tourists. The prime targets have been tourist buses and sites where large groups gather. The Luxor massacre in November 1997 genuinely horrified most Egyptians, as reflected in the Khan storekeepers who hung signs reading, "We're sorry." What is apparent is that this tragedy served as a wake-up call to the Egyptian government to take measures to protect Egypt's visitors and safeguard the lucrative tourist trade. There is a notable increase in security around tourist sites and airports and the police forces are reported to be better trained and are definitely more visible. The government boasts of crack teams that have the capability to reach any place in Cairo within minutes should there be a terrorist threat. While trying to enter the Hurghada airport to retrieve my delayed luggage, I was subject to having an AK-47 trained on me because I did not have a valid ticket and thus should not have been at the airport. From that experience I was a personal witness to the Egyptian government's intentions to avert further terrorist activity (although I sincerely wish it hadn't been so first-hand.) Carolina and I firmly believe, however, that far greater measures must be taken to protect tourists, starting with more alert officers throughout tourist sites, and not just in clumps at the entrance.

It is always difficult to predict if a terrorist attack is going to happen. To give you an idea of how common (or, to be more precise, uncommon) attacks are, take a look at this timeline:
Oct 21, 1992:A tourist bus was ambushed, killing one Briton and injuring two others.
Feb 26, 1993:A bomb was placed in a coffee shop in central Cairo, killing a citizen of Turkey, Sweden and Egypt and wounding 20 others.
June 8, 1993:A bomb explodes next to a tourist bus on Pyramids Road in Cairo, killing two Egyptians and wounding 22, including British citizens.
Oct 27, 1993:Two Americans, a French citizen and an Italian are shot dead by a gunman at a luxury hotel in Cairo.
Mar 4, 1994:A German tourist is killed when gunmen open fire on a Nile cruise boat in southern Egypt.
Aug 26, 1994:A Spanish child is killed by gunmen when a tourist bus is attacked in Southern Egypt.
Sep 27, 1994:Two Germans and two Egyptians are killed by gunmen in Hurghada.
Oct 23, 1994:A British tourist is killed and three wounded by gunmen.
Apr 18, 1996:Islamic militants shoot dead 18 Greek tourists they mistook for Israelis on a bus near the Pyramids.
Sep 18, 1997:Gunmen kill 9 Germans and an Egyptian in a gunfight and firebomb attack outside the Egyptian Museum.
Nov 17, 1997:58 tourists and 4 Egyptians are killed at Hatshepsut's temple in Luxor.
Oct 7, 2004:The Taba Hilton on the Egypt-Israel border is bombed, as are two nearby beaches, and 34 people die.
Apr 7, 2005:A bomb in a bazaar in Cairo kills an American and two French.
Apr 30, 2005:A suicide bomber wounds two Israelis, an Italian, a Swede and three Egyptians near the Egyptian museum. July 22, 2005:Three bombs placed around Sharm el Sheikh kill approximately 100 Egyptians and tourists and wound many more.

As always, some particular hotspots in Egypt should be avoided (see Hotel & Sightseeing for more information). If you have questions or concerns regarding terrorism in Egypt, contact your ministry or department of foreign affairs for up-to-date travel advice and advisories.

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HEALTH INSURANCE
It is absolutely vital that you have health insurance when you travel. Do not buy into the myth that just because nothing has ever happened to you yet, it never will. Should you require medical assistance and not have health insurance while in Egypt, you could be handed a bill worth tens of thousands of dollars. Check with your employer or credit card company to see if you are automatically covered. If not, consult your travel agent for a good plan. I personally recommend the American Automobile Association/Canadian Automobile Association (AAA/CAA), although you do have to be a member. And always carry details of your health insurance with you, should the hospital require the information before admitting you.

Know what your plan does and does not cover.

I cannot stress enough how important it is to have proper health insurance. It is far too easy for your family to be financially burdened with huge bills simply because someone they love was involved in an accident in Egypt. Just recently, a student tourist was the victim of a motor vehicle accident (not her fault). Her medical care ran about $11,000, something that her health insurance, had she had it, would have covered. You may also discover that the medical standards in Egypt are not the same as in your home country. The approximate cost of flying someone home on a stretcher to North American is $8,000. On a more grisly note, should you die while away from home, without health insurance your family would have to pay around $5000 to bring you back.

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HEALTH & HOSPITALS
Now having convinced you (hopefully!) to purchase health insurance, I will admit that the worst that is likely to happen to you is a case or two of diarrhoea (called Pharaoh's Revenge here) or dehydration! Some people react negatively to the stress of travelling and change in climate and diet, while others sail though without a problem. I find myself more likely to become ill when eating local food than when eating Western food. This may be because I consume more Western food or because the preparation standards are often relaxed with local food.

Here are a few suggestions:

Anyone living or visiting here will realize within minutes of stepping off the plane just how polluted the air really is. With more than a million vehicles (most with no emissions controls) clogging the roads as well as the dust and dirt blowing in from the desert, breathing the air in Cairo is equivalent to smoking a pack of cigarettes a day. If your lungs somehow are not affected, your eyes will be. Contact wearers may wish to carry a pair of eyeglasses in case contacts become dirty or infection sets into the eye. Anyone with sensitive eyes should have plenty of bottles of eye drops on hand to flush their eyes.

The population of Egypt is estimated to be 65 million people, 16 million of which live in Cairo. Cairo boasts the dubious record of having areas with the densest number of people per kilometre in the world. Another way of looking at it is this: 99% of the population occupy 6% of the total surface of the country.

Diarrhoea can be beat with doses of Kaopectate, but if it doesn't improve within a few days or you develop a fever or pass blood, seek medical help. Carolina, the hands-down expert on avoiding food-related illness, swears by taking a tablet of Pepto Bismol before each meal. Toilets in Egyptian tourist sites can be very dirty and smelly, and you are unlikely to find toilet paper. Hotels or Western fast food restaurants are your best bet if you find yourself in need of the washroom. Dehydration, the bane of tourists, can hit you without warning. It is easy to forget to drink while wandering around the sites (this goes for residents also, regardless of whether you are trekking around the pyramids or down to the local supermarket). Always carry a water bottle (I suggest one with a strap, otherwise you are likely to leave it on the bus) and take frequent sips from it. Carry in your suitcase rehydration crystals for emergencies. Likewise, always brush your teeth using bottled water, even if you are staying in a respectable hotel. We give our pets only bottled water and even used bottled water for cooking pasta and vegetables (although some foreigners are not this careful.) Baraka, Safi and Siwa brand bottled water are both common and good. Baby wipes are handy to wash the grime from your hands and the dust from your face. Obviously, invest in a good sunscreen (30S SPF is a good bet) and lavish it on. Recoat yourself after leaving the water, any vigorous activity or after a few hours in the sun.

As tempting (to some) as it may be, do not swim in the Nile. If the fact that it is filthy does not persuade you against a dip, consider this: Schistosomiasis, a parasitic worm that buries into the skin to attack the bladder and intestines, is a real threat.

Before travelling to Egypt, find out what inoculations and health precautions are recommended. The following websites provide information for travellers:

Residents should consider being vaccinated against Typhoid, Meningitis (A and C), Havrix monodose, Hepatits B, Polio, and Diptheria/Tetanus. For tourists and short-stay visitors, the Polio and Tetanus vaccinations are probably a good idea. Take care of cuts and use an antibiotic ointment. Malaria is currently not a threat in Egypt, although this doesn't mean you won't be bitten by mosquitoes. Locals swear by plug-in vapour repellents, but I find it uncomfortable to remain in the room with them.

As I mentioned before, the standard of medical care varies greatly in Egypt: you will find both good and bad. The good news is that many doctors in Cairo speak English. Outside of Cairo, it is a different story. The level of nursing care is poor, due to inferior training and because it is undervalued as it is considered a woman's position. If you do spend time in a hospital, it is best to bring in a relative or friend who can keep an eye on everything from medication (where did that needle come from?) to getting you another blanket. In the case of an emergency, know where your hospital is and do not rely on an ambulance to reach you. Ambulances are not respected on the road and it may be quicker for you to reach the hospital yourself. The most remarkable thing is to watch the ambulance chasers: cars that surround the ambulance to use its speed to cheat the traffic. Also, most ambulances do not have adequate medical equipment or trained staff, so if you can get someone to drive you to the hospital, it is usually just as well. I recommend the following two hospitals in Cairo:

Oh, one more thing: when some doctors see foreigners, they also see dollar signs. What foreigners pay and what locals pay are two very different things. Someone I know recently went through 30 terrifying minutes in a full-body MRI just because he had a pain in his shoulder. The bill: LE900. Of course, the doctor may have just been attempting to address every possible consideration, but it was both extreme and expensive.

Residents may be issued a hospital identity card which verifies that your employer will guarantee to cover the cost of your medical treatment. The next step would be to work out a payment plan with your employer or insurance company. Always carry the card on you and/or have at least LE500 on you to cover the cost of any immediate treatment.

Pharmacies are a pleasant surprise in Egypt. They are cheap, efficient on the most part, and there seems to always be a friendly, English-speaking person ready to help you (who is very knowledgeable of the medication - one recently caught a mistake on a relative's prescription). Many medications go under a different name to what you may find back home, so consult your pharmacist.

Pharmacies - Night Services:

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PHOTOGRAPHY:
It is a safe bet to ask permission before taking photographs. You may offend someone by photographing religious artifacts or buildings or you may be inadvertantly taking a photo of a military facility. At best, you may lose your film and camera. At worst, you may attract the attention of the local authorities. Likewise, not everyone appreciates having their photo taken! Some may just be tired of performing for tourists and others may demand money for the picture. Some temples and tombs allow photography but most restrict you from using your flash. Do not ignore this because there doesn't appear to be an official on duty: I once observed a tourist use flash photography on Tutankhamun's mask, and then spend the next 10 minutes explaining and apologizing to three security guards. An attempted offer of LE10 to the security guards further exacerbated the situation. In many sites, Egyptians are dedicated to preserving their history and a camera flash negatively affects centuries old artifacts. Film can easily be purchased here, although it is usually old. There are numerous development centres in hotels and in shopping areas and film outside of hotels can usually be developed in an hour for LE18. Check before you go if you are allowed to bring your camera and/or video into a tourist site. Some tourist sites do not allow cameras or else the charge is so extreme (it can cost up to LE100 to take photos or video) that you may wish to leave your camera behind or on the bus. Although these sites generally do have a place to check your camera, you are not always guaranteed that the one returned to you is the one that belongs to you.

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DRESS CODE:
It is a good idea to learn before you come what is appropriate (and practical) attire. It never ceases to amaze me how someone can be climbing through the Temple of Karnak in 4 inch high heels (and I see this a lot)!! Yes, Egypt is very hot during the summer months. Although it may be acceptable to wear shorts and vests during the warm weather back home, the same certainly does not apply here. Egypt is a predominately Muslim country with strict ideas about what is appropriate for women (and men) to wear. It might be useful (and amusing) for you to know that some Egyptians develop their view of foreigners based on what they see on television and in the movies (the television soap opera "The Bold and The Beautiful" is very popular here!) It doesn't help that some tourists perpetuate these myths by their dress and manner. Foreigners, especially women, should dress more modestly than they might back home. For example, shirts that cover the shoulders, long pants, modest shorts (if you must), and comfortable shoes will help you to blend in, feel comfortable and avoid offending anyone. It is never a good idea to expose your midrif or wear overly tight clothing. I have noticed that even if only one person in a group is wearing clothing that is too revealing, the reactions of the locals are often subsequently transferred to others in that group or even those in the vicinity. Unfortunately, these reactions do distract you from having a good time and can be very intimidating. Take advantage of the haven of your hotel or the tourist resorts along the Red Sea to relax these more strict clothing standards. Here summer dresses, shorts, and bikinis are accepted and you will generally not be harassed (except for dates by hotel staff).

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HOLIDAYS
If a holiday is what you are looking for when you come to Egypt, join the crowd! The mix of Muslim, Coptic and secular traditions has resulted in holidays and festivals of all kinds. Islamic holidays follow the lunar-based Islamic calendar, Coptic holidays follow the ancient pharaonic calendar used for farming, and secular events use the Gregorian or Western calendar. Yes, it can get confusing, the hardest part is trying to figure out on our Gregorian calendar when a Muslim holiday will be as they tend to shift from year to year.

Below are a list of holidays in Egypt for 2005. At this time, I cannot predict exact dates for Islamic holidays, but I have attempted to give you a general idea of when they may fall (Public Holidays are set):

New Year's Day: January 1st (Public Holiday)
Coptic Christmas: January 7th
Islamic New Year: February 10th
Ras El-Sana El-Hegira: April 17th
Liberation Day: April 25th (Public Holiday)
Labour Day: May 1st (Public Holiday)
Eastern Easter Monday (Sham al Nessim): May 2nd (Public Holiday)
Evacuation Day: June 18th (Public Holiday)
Moulid Al-Nabi: July 17th
Revolution Day: July 23rd (Public Holiday)
Coptic New Year: September 11th
Armed Forces Day: October 6th (Public Holiday)
Ramadan: October 3rd
Suez Day: October 23rd (Public Holiday)
Eid Al-Fitr: November 2nd
Victory Day: December 23rd (Public Holiday)
Eid Al-Adha: December 31st

Ramadan, the holiest month and holiday of Islam (observed by Muslims - 90% of Egyptians), commemorates the occasion when the Koran was revealed to Mohammed. During this month long celebration, devout Muslims fast totally. This means a complete abstention from food, drink, cigarettes, sex or impure thoughts from sunrise to sunset. As a result, many offices and schools finish their activities around 4 p.m. Come sunset, everyone breaks the fast with a festive meal called el Taar. You will likely find that opening times and transport schedules are anyone's guess, and that many restaurants close for the daylight hours. The good news is that airline pilots are forbidden from fasting. The bad news is, well, just about everyone else will be doing it. That can mean people are more susceptible to irritability and fatigue. Don't worry, as a non-Muslim you are not expected to observe the fast. However, show your good manners and try not to flout food, drink or cigarettes in front of anyone. If you do, you may be told, usually politely, to please not do so. Young children, the sick, and pregnant and menstruating women are exempt from fasting. When the sun sets, a riot of sound, music, dance and, of course, food spontaneously erupt and places like the Khan al-Khalili and Husayn Square should be visited by those who are comfortable in a boisterous crowd (women in particular become a target for roving hands and the number of pickpocketing seems to rise). All in all, tourists should be prepared for the fact that businesses keep odd hours, it is hard to purchase food and drink during the day, and the streets are very noisy at night.

Eid al-Fitr is the climactic, three-day feast marking the end of Ramadan. Many people travel to the country, so if you intend to leave Cairo, book well ahead. Shops and stores empty out of goods during the annual sale times, and will not be restocked until after the feast.

Eid al-Adha, a four-day feast occurring seventy days after the end of Ramadan, celebrates Ibrahim's willingness to obey God and sacrifice his son. This is commemorated by the slaughter of sheep, and in rural areas the sheep are penned in the streets before being killed. Many say this is the time when the streets run red with blood.

Ras el-Sana el-Hegira follows three weeks later and observes the first day of the month of Moharrem, which marks the Muslim new year.

Moulid al-Nabi is the Prophet Mohammed's birthday and is celebrated with colorful processions in the towns.

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MONEY ISSUES
Egypt's unit of currency is the Egyptian pound (written as LE) and is divided into 100 piastres. The pound notes have both Arabic and Western numerals, and can be easily identified by their colors: LE1 (brown), LE5 (blue), LE10 (red), LE20 (green), LE50 (red), and LE100 (green). The piastres (written as pt) come in 25pt and 50pt notes, with 5pt, 10pt, 20pt, 25pt, and 50pt coins available, but rarely seen. The first thing you will notice is the chronic inability for anyone to make change! Hold onto your small notes to use for tips or to ensure that you don't relinquish more pounds than necessary for your purchase. Do not accept ragged or torn notes as many merchants will in turn refuse them.

It is illegal to import or export more than LE1000. It is a good idea to have at least three days worth of cash with you and U.S. dollars and English pounds are the most recognized here and the easiest to change. Banks, foreign exchanges and some hotels will convert your cash, but foreign currency exchanges are the best because they do not charge commission and have better rates (but they generally do not accept travellers' cheques). Carry the bulk of your money in U.S. dollar travellers' cheques as it is difficult to cash any other currency. I recommend using the Thomas Cook or American Express offices for cashing travellers' cheques (American Express will only cash their own) as stores will not accept travellers' cheques.

Remember to store your travellers' cheque stubs separate to the actual cheques. The stubs are vital for replacement of your travellers' cheques should you happen to lose them. Credit cards are accepted at major hotels, some restaurants, airline offices (although a friend who had to travel on short notice missed his flight because his credit card would not go through despite his credit being solid), and a few shops. American Express, Mastercard and Visa are the most likely to be accepted. In Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor and Hurghada, Banque Misr have automated teller machines (ATMs) but they are often not stocked and/or swallow cards.

Opening hours for Egyptian banks are generally Monday to Thursday (8:30 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.) and (5:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m. in winter, 6:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m. in summer) and some also open similar hours on Saturday, and from 10:00 a.m. to noon on Sunday. Most foreign banks are open from 8:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Monday to Thursday, and sometimes on Sunday. During Ramadan, banks close at 1:30 p.m.

Banks:

Baksheesh (tips) are the way of life in Egypt. You will be expected to tip everyone and anyone. If you have a car, you will immediately observe a parking attendant appear out of nowhere to guard your car and open the door for you. You should tip him about 50pt to LE1, depending on how much effort he puts into attending to your car. If you take a taxi and have him wait for you while you shop, the driver will pay this cost and you should factor it into what you pay him. When someone carries your packages, tip them 50pt to LE1 as well. The coach driver for your tours should be tipped about LE1 to LE2 a day, depending on if he is responsible for any valuables you leave on the bus. Restaurants usually include the service charge (12%), so do not tip there. But just about everyone else gets a tip and I tend to reward the more generous and creative services with something. My favorite so far is the 70+ year-old fellow with a walking cane at the pyramids who hobbles over to my car to open the door. It may take him a few minutes to get there, but I discreetly hang back until the right time.

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RENTING A CAR
I've been told the speed limits outside of downtown Cairo are 90km/h and 100km/h on the highways, but this is news to me. That sounds too slow!! If you are caught speeding, however, the police will confiscate your license and you will have to go to the traffic headquarters to get it back and pay a fine. If you think the police (who stand in the middle of the road) cannot stop speeding cars, you are right. Instead they jot down the license plate in a notebook and come after you later. If you are involved in an accident, do not leave the scene of a crash unless you feel physically threatened. This may occur if you hit a child in a rural area, but otherwise a crowd will gather and argue among themselves who is to blame, but they won't do anything else.

For people insane enough to want to try driving, you can rent a vehicle. You should note that renting a car is extremely expensive - a small to midsize car is about US$50 per day plus US$0.20 per kilometre plus tax.

Avis:
Heliopolis Sheraton (tel: 291-0223)
Meridien Heliopolis (tel: 290-5055)
Nile Hilton (tel: 576-6432)
Airport (tel: 291-4288)

Budget Rent-A-Car:
Cairo Marriott (tel: 340-6667)
Airport (tel: 265-2395)

Hertz:
Ramses Hilton (tel: 574-4400)
Semiramis Inter-Continental (tel: 354-3239)
Airport (tel: 291-4288)

There are a few maps of Cairo available here. The three main ones are City Map of Cairo (LE5, pocket sized) which includes the downtown and Heliopolis, Cairo A-Z (LE40) with 150 pages but not complete in many areas, and Cairo Maps (LE20) which is probably a good compromise. All are usually available at the American University in Cairo Press or at the Community Services Association in Maadi. For residents, pick up a Maadi map for (LE5). Despite the fact that Maadi works on a numbered road system (Road 9, Road 10, etc.) don't be fooled into believing they might actually be near each other.

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COMMUNICATIONS
In Egypt only 3 in 100 Egyptians own a phone (this does not include cellular phones - everyone and their cat has one of these). It isn't really surprising considering the past difficulties that Egypt's telephone system has experienced. Overloaded exchanges and failing equipment affect local calls on a regular basis. To obtain a phone line here is very difficult, so landlords do not cancel the number but pass it on to the next occupant. New residents should confirm that the previous occupant has paid their bill before accepting the accommodation. Otherwise, and I speak from experience here, you will receive a rather terse request for payment (to which you reply that it wasn't you but the previous occupant) to be followed by the termination of your line. There is an English-speaking Cairo (140 and 141) directory assistance operator, but don't expect the number you seek to be listed with them. In order to call internationally from your home, you will require an international line (a huge headache - read highly expensive, if you do manage to get one) or use an American or European call-back service. To use the service you dial a local or toll-free number to the call-back company, wait to be called back, give you personal ID number and dial the long-distance number.

Tourists and residents who do not have an international line or call-back service should make calls through a major hotel with a trunk or direct international line. These are usually heavily marked up, so ask the cost first. Before the hotel mark-up and during peak hours (8:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m.) a three-minute call to Britain will cost approximately LE21, to North America LE24, and to Australasia LE30. Outside of peak hours is twenty-five percent less.

To phone from your home to Egypt, dial the international code (00 in Britain, Ireland and New Zealand; 011 in the U.S. and Canada; 0011 in Australia), then 20 (for Egypt) followed by the area code (always omit the 0 - i.e. 02 for Cairo would become 2) and finally the number.

Local dialing codes:
Alexandria 03
Aswan 097
Cairo 02
Hurghada 065
Kom Ombo 097
Luxor 095
Sharm el Sheikh 062

I have been both impressed and disappointed with the mail service in Egypt. The mail arrives at my place tied to the back of the mailman's bike, so its a wonder anything actually reaches me! Mail from North America takes exactly five days to reach my home. To send mail to North American takes ten to twelve days and about four weeks for Australia. I have been satisfied with the mail within Egypt, but I have also heard some amusing stories of mail taking up to a year to reach its destination. If you are sending mail internationally, ask someone to write the country in Arabic. Red mailboxes are for local mail, but it is best to drop your mail off at the post office. International mail can be mailed from big hotels, the post office or the blue airmail boxes. Overseas stamps, available from hotels and the post office, are 80pt. Receiving packages from overseas is risky and subject to a thorough inspection by customs. Somewhere along the line, things do have a tendency to fall out of the package, so bear this in mind.

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TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES
Egypt, and particularly Cairo, are challenging places for people with disabilities to get around. Although disabilities are common in Egypt due to poverty (cataracts are a major cause of blindness) and lack of proper treatment, there is no real stigma against the disabled here. Some recently built hotels are wheel-chair friendly, but you may have to rely on a ramp designed for luggage instead. I have seen tourists visiting the pyramids and other sites in wheelchairs or with walking canes accompanied by able-bodied helpers who can assist navigate around sand and stones. The most challenging must be the tombs, which are always difficult to reach, and are often situated down steep flights of stairs. You will be hard pressed to find wheelchair or disabled toilets and, as there are few sidewalks outside of downtown Cairo, the streets tend to be narrow, uneven and filled with heavy automobile traffic. The Egyptian Antiquities Museum does have an elevator and is one of the easiest sites to get around. Contact your local travel agency for specially designed tours for disabled individuals. In Egypt call, ETAMS Tours (02-575-4721) for custom-made tours. The Camel Dive Club (tel: 600 700, fax: 600 601, email: [email protected]) in Sharm el Sheikh has facilities for disabled divers.

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TRAVELLERS WITH KIDS
Believe it or not, a trip to Egypt can be a trying time for younger kids. With the heat, crowds, and complicated history being delivered in a monotonous voice by a tour guide, kids can become tired and cranky. There are a few things you can tailor around to your children:

I was given this piece of advice from a friend: invest in a travel guide and take the time the night before to read about what you are going to see the next day. If kids can understand a little of the significance of what they are seeing, they'll have more fun. Also, guides usually ask questions and kids love outsmarting adults by offering the correct answers on topics such as gods or the significance of buildings.

One thing to note: you will not be able to find safety equipment such as riding helmets or life jackets (for felucca sailing). Also, have medicine on hand for diarrhoea, dehydration and sunburn for kids. If they're sick, it won't be fun for you either.

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CLIMATE
Many visitors and even residents find that they have not brought the right type of clothing for the vast difference in temperature that occurs in Egypt. It is easy to assume that because Egypt is located in a desert, the temperature is always hot, hot, hot. However, this could not be farther from the truth. Winter is breezy, crisp and COLD! You will be thankful to have with you numerous sweaters, thick woolly socks and even, at certain times, a winter coat. Summer brings on a literal punishing heat (with humidity of 30-60%) that can hamper your enjoyment of sightseeing. It is difficult to concentrate when the heat seems to suck your breath away and there are already 20 tourists clamoring for a square inch of shade! If you visit tombs during the summer, bring a battery operated (but silent) portable fan - you will be the envy of your group! Cairo receives about 1 inch of rainfall per year, usually in December to March; Alexandria gets 7 inches in October to April; Aswan and Luxor receive almost no rain. Between February and April, Cairo is subject to the dramatic khamsiin, or sandstorms that blow for three to four hours. The skies turn yellow and sand (if it already wasn't before the storms) gets in every inch of your home.

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ANIMALS
The way animals are treated in the streets is very different from foreign practice. Unless you are impervious to these things, you will probably be horrified by the abuse of an animal at some time during your stay. Donkeys are used to pull carts, particularly those used to collect trash. Their lives are extremely harsh and you will notice that they are covered in sores from the daily beatings they receive. It is the young boys who beat the donkeys the most, but the men are only fractionally better. Many Muslims consider dogs to be unclean and will avoid them. You will see cats and some dogs on the streets, both in the cities and in the residential areas. Cats are well liked and are fed scraps of food by the locals. If you decide to go riding, you will probably notice that the horses are clearly underfed, but they are not generally abused as they bring in many tourist dollars.

If you decide to bring your pet to Egypt, contact your local Egyptian Embassy for current information. There was no hassle when I brought my dog to Egypt. I simply had her vaccinated against rabies one month prior to our departure and obtained a health certificate from her vet not more than 48 hours before she left. There is no quarantine and pets are collected at the airport with your luggage.

Animal Friends is an organization whose mandate is to increase public awareness of animal welfare in Cairo and to promote the health and welfare of stray and abandoned animals. They work in conjunction with the People's Dispensary for Sick Animals (El Sikka el Beyda Street Abbassaya near the Arab Contractors Medical Centre, Tel: (02) 482 2294) an Egyptian equivalent to the humane society. If you wish to make a donation or adopt a needy animal, visit the web site for Animal Friends.

The Brooke Hospital for Animals was founded over 60 years ago by Mrs. Geoffrey Brooke to assist sick and distressed equine animals. They are currently in Egypt, Pakistan, Jordan and India. Please visit the web site to learn more about their valuable work or to make a donation.

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Don't Forget to Pack the Following:

In an emergency (and because hotels and boats do not often carry medicines) if you are dehydrated or have diarrhoea, mix 6 teaspoon of sugar and � teaspoon of salt to 1 liter of bottled water.

Time: Egypt is two hours ahead of GMT and seven hours ahead of EST.

Electricity: The current in Egypt is 220V, 50Hz. Appliances designed for 110V will require a converter and you may need an adapter as sockets are designed for round-pronged plugs.

Exchange rate: I suggest using Oanda Classic 164 Currency Converter for current exchange rates.

Duty-Free Limit: Your duty-free limit is 1 liter of alcohol, 1 liter of perfume, 200 cigarettes and 25 cigars. On rare occasions, the Customs Declaration Form D will be handed to you on arrival to list your cameras, jewellery, cash, travellers cheques and electronics. Keep it handy when you depart although it is unlikely you will be asked for it.

Service charge: Keep in mind that a service charge of 12% is added in restaurants and hotels with a 5-7% sales tax on top of that. In other words, expect to pay 20% on top of the listed price.

Here are approximate generous TAXI rates:
Downtown to airport LE25
Downtown to Heliopolis LE10
Downtown to Khan LE3
Downtown to Zamalek LE4
Downtown to Citadel LE4
Downtown to Midan Ramses LE2
Downtown to pyramids LE15

EMERGENCY INFORMATION

  • Fire Central - 180
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