Stay and Play in Egypt.
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) which I have enjoyed and which should not be missed. Two things to note: most museums close from about 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. for prayers on Friday, and cameras and video recorders cost extra (from LE 10 - 150) so you may want to consider taking postcards home instead.
Even if you are planning on visiting Egypt without a tour group, you should start by checking out travel agency brochures. It may not be possible to accomplish all that the tours do (some things are just easier to see or reach when an Egyptian tour guide is assisting) but it will give you an idea of what is essential to see.
Just as you should not miss the pyramids in Cairo, I feel Luxor is not to be left out. If you have one week, spend the first two days in Cairo checking out the Giza Pyramids and the Egyptian Museum (if you can swing it, head out to the Dashur pyramids). Spend the remaining days in Luxor either on a three-night cruise from Luxor to Aswan or just visiting Thebes (one day) and the East bank temples (one day). Be sure to fit in a felucca ride. I do not consider it essential to make an additional trip to Aswan if it is not with a tour - there are fewer things to see there.
If you have longer than a week, you may wish to add in a side trip to Hurghada or Sharm el Sheikh on the Red Sea. After whirlwind days of sightseeing, do not plan on (or expect there to be) anything but diving, snorkeling or sunbathing in these towns.
I have deliberately focused only on the prime tourist locations within Egypt for two reasons: they are relatively safe and have a lot to offer. Areas which are sympathetic to Islamic extremism, such as Minya, Assiut and the Upper Nile region, should be avoided. Your safest option is to fly to areas between Cairo and other sites in Egypt to avoid becoming the target of terrorists. If you decide to travel overland from Cairo, use car convoys. Buses are sometimes used for target practice by terrorists, especially on the Cairo to Aswan or Luxor route.
The Western standards of client service and attention to detail are something that many Egyptian hotels fall short on. The food offered in hotels tends to be expensive, of poor quality and limited in selection. Most foreign residents that I know of visit hotels only for the bar or pub, and not for a meal. In Cairo, unless the hotel is located directly downtown, there is little to walk to that is not a taxi-ride away. As a result, visitors can feel trapped with only the hotel's restaurants and shopping arcade as a diversion.
The following quote is taken from the Cairo Times (15-28 April 1999; "Star Inflation" by Azadeh Moaveni): "There are many institutional problems here holding true five-star service back," says a director at one of Cairo's largest five-star chain hotels. A combination of restrictive labor laws and a work culture resistant to change and accountability make it difficult to maintain a productive and professional staff, says the director.
"I've never had such a hard time like this anywhere else I've worked," he says. "By just doing your job - trying to fire bad workers, improving or changing how things are done - you not only get no support but come off looking like an evil bastard trying to hurt people."
Fears related to job security and a disregard for the bigger picture of a hotel's performance are also a problem, according to the director. "The only chef in our hotel who knows how to make good croissants won't tell anyone the recipe," he says, "because he's insecure and thinks his job depends on those croissants. So on his day off, we don't have any."
There are, nevertheless, a few good hotels out there which I do recommend. In this section I will briefly review the hotels that I have either stayed at or visited while in Egypt (all five star/deluxe). This is in no way intended to be an exhaustive review of hotels, only a discussion of what I know. I will continue to update this section as I visit further hotels.
Hotels:
The Mena House Oberoi Hotel & Casino: Pyramids' Road, Giza. Tel: 383-3222, Fax: 383-7777.
Located at the base of the pyramids, the luxurious Mena House Oberoi was originally constructed as a royal hunting lodge and was converted into a hotel in 1869. It is owned by the Indian-based Oberoi chain, and combines the original arabesque Islamic architecture alongside its new modern wing. This resort is set in 40 acres with a pool, tennis courts and a golf course. I have stayed at the Mena House Oberoi - one was a success, the other two times disasters.
Stay One: The large, ornately decorated rooms have huge balconies, many of which face the pyramids. There is nothing quite like the peace of sitting on the balcony watching the sun set against the pyramids. There are five restaurants and I highly recommend the excellent The Moghul Room which specializes in Indian cuisine and is always full of foreign residents. The main drawback is that the hotel does not provide a shuttle bus for the 30 minute taxi-ride to downtown.
Stay Two: Unfortunately, standards have slipped over the months, and I have been treated to lost reservations, rude front desk staff, tired-looking rooms, no frills, suggestions of my skipping out without paying, and repeated trips to the General Manager to complain. Not the same old fabulous place. My verdict: you take your chances.
Stay Three: You would think I had learned my lesson! Well, this time, despite having the rates confirmed on hotel letterhead, the front desk insisted upon check-out that I pay significantly more. No manager could clear this up and another trip to the General Manager (who seemed overwhelmed and kept repeating how it was very confusing to him) seemed to be a waste of time.
Semiramis InterContinental Cairo: Corniche el Nil, P.O. Box 60, Cairo. Tel: 355-7171, Fax: 356-3020. Internet: www.interconti.com, e-mail: [email protected]
The Semiramis InterContinental Cairo, located on the bank of the Nile and within walking distance to the Egyptian Museum and numerous Embassies, was a pleasant surprise. This is one of only two hotels that I would recommend to friends to stay at and one which I visit regularly for the restaurants. Although it appears quite drab from the outside, the lobby is large and inviting. The staff all spoke excellent English, were eager to assist and provided detailed and accurate information when requested. This high level of competency was the first reason that convinced me to patronize the Semiramis InterContinental. The other was the restaurants. The hotel can boast ten above average restaurants, including ones that specialize in Italian, Far Eastern, International, and French cuisine. There is also the Tea Garden, which is a quiet but elegant meeting point for a hot drink, and Los Amigos, a Mexican themed restaurant and bar. An example of the Semiramis InterContinental's attention to detail can be found in the well planned menu of the coffee shop, Night and Day, which offers dishes low in sodium, low in cholesterol, and for vegetarians (the first of its kind that I have seen in Cairo). The shopping arcade spans two floors, and includes a drugstore, florist, gift shops, jewelers and different boutiques.
Cairo Sheraton: Galaa Sq., Dokki, Cairo. Tel: 336-9700.
There are two Sheratons, directly facing each other across the Nile, which can make things confusing. The Cairo Sheraton is the better of the two, and is popular with locals and tour groups. It has two towers, good arcades, and a pool. The large rooms are impressive and boast long balconies. I was lucky enough to have a corner room facing the pyramids with a balcony that wrapped around both sides of the hotel. Although the Cairo smog is thick, nothing could diminish my first glimpse of the pyramids. The Cairo Sheraton is located in Dokki, on the bank of the west bank of the Nile. This isolation across the Nile requires a taxi-ride and there is very little to walk to around the hotel given that it is located on a heavily travelled traffic circle. The staff at the hotel, in my experience, are not helpful and quite abrupt. I have never successfully managed to contact anyone staying at the hotel and I once resorted to calling the General Manager for help to reach one of the restaurants.
Nile Hilton: Tahrir Sq., Downtown. Tel: 578-0444
This hotel could not have a better location for tourists: its immediate neighbor is the Egyptian Museum and it rests on the bank of the Nile. Unfortunately, it is one of the ugliest buildings in Cairo and looks like a dormitory out of the 1950s. Being across from the Nile does not mean, however, that it is easily accessible. After the death-defying run across the multi-lane street, many foreigners retreat to the Nile Hilton for a breather and a stiff drink! The hotel contains many restaurants, including a pub and a pizzeria. However, service is another matter. On one visit, after being ignored for 15 minutes, I left one restaurant only to be treated with the same cold shoulder at another. I was repeatedly told to wait and it was only after physically intercepting a waiter that I was able to place my order. If you sit long enough you will notice the high number of affluent Egyptians that pass through the large, airy lobby of the hotel, a testimony to its popularity with the locals. There are two shopping arcades: a small one in the hotel and a larger, more fashion-oriented mall besides the hotel, and a large swimming pool.
El Gezirah Sheraton: El Orman St., Dokki. Tel: 341-1333, Fax: 341-3640.
This second Sheraton hotel in Cairo is located on an island on the Nile and is a familiar landmark, with its single round tower jutting out. And that is one of its greatest drawbacks. El Gezirah Sheraton Hotel has had to make do with as little land as possible, thus making for a tight squeeze. There is a minuscule pool, unfortunately located adjacent to a main walkway with a prime view for every passerby. The lobby is small, cramped and filled with business people. There is little to do and few places to go for anyone with a family. It is difficult to bring cars onto the grounds, but you will need some form of transportation if you want to leave the hotel. This is not a family-oriented hotel, but more suited for business people. All of the rooms do have a view of the Nile, but have very small balconies.
Le Meridien Cairo: Corniche El Nil, Garden City. Tel: 362-1717
I have always considered Le Meridien chain to be one of the most superior in the world. Unfortunately, Le Meridien Cairo is virtually unrecognizable as a member. Located on the bank of the Nile, Le Meridien Cairo is in the process of adding another tower complete with a pool, to its complex. Hopefully this will breathe life back into the hotel. It is located within a 20 minute walking distance of the Egyptian Museum and close to the American, British and Canadian Embassies. The lobby is small, with no seating. There is a cafe/bar located in the lobby, but it has a LE20 minimal charge and does not allow children. The arcade consists of a few shops, but the hotel does have a large, decorated pool by the Nile River. The coffee shop was disappointing. Two out of three of our orders were wrong, and considering that the staff were listless and clearly disinterested in our wellbeing, we were resigned to eating what was put in front of us. The view from this hotel is breathtaking and probably the saving grace for Le Meridien Cairo. The Hard Rock Cafe has now opened a restaurant in Le Meridien Cairo.
From the airport:
Cairo's airport is located 25km north-east of the city, so expect 20-30 minutes travel time to downtown and 40-50 minutes to Maadi. There are two terminals: Terminal 2 supports most international flights, while Terminal 1 is used by EgyptAir. You will most likely come through Terminal 2 at some wee hour of the morning. When you exit the plane you will walk past a couple of duty-free shops (usually closed at the hour you arrive), exchange offices, banks and Thomas Cook before reaching customs. You can find a lost and found booth at Terminal 1.
If you are not with a tour, you can reach Cairo by taxi or bus (see below for my comments on transportation). For those that are cost-conscious, there is a new No. 356 airport service. It runs from Terminal 2 and 1 to the square behind the Egyptian Museum and back. You can locate the bus stand by heading out into the airport car park. The fare is about LE2 per person plus LE1 for each piece of luggage with the bus running from 5:45 a.m. until 11 p.m. The local No. 400 bus (usually crowded) runs the same route for (25pt). Alternatively, you can take a taxi. You can't miss the taxi drivers the minute you step out the doors of the airport. You should not pay more than LE20-30 for a trip to your downtown hotel. Settle the price before you get in and hand the money over at the other end. There will be a fight - you are right and they are greedy, so ignore the protests and head into the hotel.
Sightseeing:
CITADEL OF SALADIN
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Salah El Din El Ayyubi, founder of the Ayubbid dynasty, built this medieval stronghold in 1183 A.D. atop the Mohattam hill range. Six centuries later the impressive Mohammed Ali Mosque was built within the compound. Also on the site is the Jewel Museum, the Cairo Carriage Museum, and the Military Museum.
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THE PYRAMIDS AND SPHINX OF GIZA
| The Pyramid of Chephren is a stunning backdrop for the Sphinx (below). Sometimes overlooked, the Pyramid of Mykernos sits alone with its smaller Queens' pyramids (above, right). The famous silhousette (below, right).
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Visit the Pyramids of Cheops, Chephren and Mykernos and the Sphinx. Do not pass up on the opportunity to enter the pyramids (entry to each pyramid is often rotated so you may not be able to see all three). Although not as decorative as the tombs at Thebes, there is something magical about standing within the pyramids. One thing I must add from my own experience and those of visitors to the pyramids: it is easy to be distracted by the intense harassment of the highly aggressive merchants, camel and horse owners, and impromptu "official" ticket checkers, all out to part you from your money. Do not hand your ticket over to anyone except the uniformed agent beside the ticket box at the entrance to the site and at the entrance of each pyramid or else you may have to pay to have your ticket returned. Do not hesitate to be aggressive back and seek out the tourist police if you are not eventually left in peace.
There is a nightly Sound and Light Show (LE 33 for tourists) with the pyramids as props, presented in Arabic, English, French, Japanese and German.
The Solar Boat Museum is located behind Cheops Pyramid (LE 20 for tourists) and houses the boat that may have carried the body of Pharaoh Cheops down the Nile from Memphis. Discovered in 1954, the boat is over 4,500 years old and show signs of use.
STEP PYRAMID AT SAQQARA
| Built for the Pharaoh Zoser by Imhotep in 2816 B.C., and literally a step pyramid, this is the first large-scale stone structure in history. It is good as a visual example of the evolution of the construction of the pyramid. |  |
PYRAMIDS OF DASHUR
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| One of the most impressive pyramid fields, the Red Pyramid (above, left) rivals the Great Pyramid at Giza and should not be missed. The interior is something to behold, with three breathtaking (literally and figuratively) chambers. Make sure to visit the Bent Pyramid (above, right), which provides a fascinating view of the construction of a pyramid through the crumbling exterior. The Pyramids of Dashur are unfortunately often overlooked, partially due to their distance from Cairo.
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The mayor's declared plans to rejuvenate Alexandria over the next five years has come not a moment too soon. Heavily steeped in Italian architecture, this Mediterranean city still shows shadows of the splendor of its heyday. Anyone visiting Alex should not miss the opportunity to walk down the Corniche. Fortunately, part of the five-year plan is the clean-up of the filthy, stained beaches and waterfront. Most tourist attractions are located downtown and staying anywhere except around Saad Zaghloul Square will require the use of numerous taxis. Alex is very windy and cold in the winter, and you may be favoured with one of Egypt's few downpours. |
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Hotel:
Sightseeing:
I am of the firm belief that you cannot come to Egypt without visiting Luxor. Once the site of Egypt's capital, it is the concentration of tombs and temples that make this city so culturally rich. It isn't difficult to see why the Temple of Karnak, dedicated to the great god Amun, is one of the greatest ancient sites in Egypt. Cross over to the west bank and lose yourself in the splendor of the tombs of paraohs, queens and noblemen. It is worth taking a guided tour of Luxor for the wealth of knowledge that a guide can provide and for the transportation between distant sites.
Hotel:
To visit the West Bank, you now have the option of using the newly completed bridge across the Nile. This has replaced the tourist ferries, so if you want to go by boat, you will have to take a local ferry (LE1) from the Luxor Temple or a local launch (starting at LE5) wherever you find one. From the other shore, it is 3km to the ticket office, 4km to the Valley of the Queens and 8km to the Valley of the Kings. Once you reach the other side, you will need to get a taxi (about LE40-70 for the day).
If you are not on a cruise or organized tour, your hotel can usually arrange for a tour of the sites in Luxor. For about US$45 you can catch a tour from Thomas Cook or Masr Travel (380-951) or take a day cruise from the Novotel for LE150.
Sightseeing:
East Bank:
KARNAK TEMPLE
The Temple of Amon at Karnak, a holy city of pylons, hypostyle halls, colossal statues, shrines and obelisks, was constructed over 2,000 years. This is reported to be the largest columned temple in the world, with Seti I Hypostyle Hall containing 134 columns. Enter via the avenue of ram-headed sphinxes inscribed with the name of Ramses II. Of note are the obelisk of Queen Hatshepsut, the Sacred Lake and the giant scarb beetle (walk around it for good luck). |
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LUXOR TEMPLE
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Inside you will see the preserved remains of a Islamic mosque and a Christian chapel. Of particular note are the fine reliefs of the festival of Opet. Littered outside on the grounds are the remains of fallen statues, including an impressive giant head.
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QUEEN HATSHEPSUT'S TEMPLE
Queen Hatshepsut's monument at dawn (above). |
Known as Deir El Bahari, the Mortuary Temple of Queen Hatshepsut is surrounded by sandstone cliffs. Queen Hatshepsut, the first woman to be Pharaoh, commissoned this beautiful temple, although it is said that she was never actually entombed here. |
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COLLOSSI OF MEMNON
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Named after the Trojan hero Memnon by the Greeks, the statues are actually of Amenopis III.
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VALLEY OF THE KINGS
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The royal burial site for Pharaohs of the 19th-20th dynasties, now with Disney-like trams to move you around the site. The fee will permit you entry into three tombs (the selection may rotate). On my last visit I saw Ramses III (many side chambers), Ramses IV (ceiling painting of the goddess Nut), and Tuthmosis III (refreshingly modest). Tutankhamun's tomb (below) is an additional LE 40 (but note that although the king is still inside, all the treasures have been removed to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo).
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EDFU
Black granite statues of Horus guard the temple (above). |
An outstanding temple of Ptolemaic architecture dedicated to the god Horus. Of particular note is the temple walls detailing the battle between Horus and Seth. |
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KOM OMBO
A detailed panel from the temples at Kom Ombo (above). |
This two-temples-in-one dedicated to the gods Sobek and Haroeris lies on the bank of the Nile. This temple was once a santuary for pregnant women. Today, be sure to see the mummified crocodiles and Nilometer. |
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Aswan is very much a city of the Nile, with a pace that matches the many feluccas that sail gracefully by its banks. There is little in the way of monuments, apart for the exceptional Temple of Philae and the grand Temple of Ramses II in Abu Simbel. Aswan is more a place to visit at the start or completion of a leisurely cruise down the Nile to Luxor.
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Hotel:
PHILAE
| The Temple of Philae is one of the best preserved Ptolemaic temples in Egypt. The temple is dedicated to the goddess Isis, whose cult had a tradition that every Egyptian should visit the temple once in his life.
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ABU SIMBEL
Nestled in a hillside along the Nile, The Great Temple of Ramses II is over 20 meters high (above).
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Sightseeing:
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Destination of choice for many Europeans and affluent Egyptians, Hurghada is a resort town. Anyone not staying at one of the numerous resort will most likely have to travel far to reach a public beach. The same goes for the marine life. Located offshore, you will need to arrange for a boat and guide (at around LE35 for a half day, including snorkelling gear) to take you to the prime spots. |
Hotels:
Dive sites:
Fanadir (close to Hurghada and very popular, can sometime spot dolphins).
Fanous (great fish, coral and sometimes dolphins).
Giftun Islands (beautiful reefs around numerous islands).
Shaab el Erg (quite far from Hurghada but interesting open-water fish).
Shaab Torfa (near Giftun Islands, coral).
Shedwan Island (reefs and sharks).
Dive clubs:
Aquanaut Red Sea (tel: 549-891; fax: 547-045; email: [email protected])
Jasmin Diving Center (tel: 446-455, email: [email protected])
Red Sea Diving Center (tel: 442-960; fax: 442-234; email: [email protected])
Red Sea Scuba Schools - Hitlon Resort (tel: 444-854; email: [email protected])
Sub Aqua - Sofitel Hotel (tel:442-473; email: [email protected])
Subex (tel: 547-593; fax: 547-471)
Sightseeing:
Sharm El Sheikh is located at the tip of the Sinai and is considered the top dive site on the Red Sea. Coral reefs and marine life are easily reached from the shore by wading into the cool water. Sharm is also a town of resorts and there is little to do apart from relaxing in the sun and diving. The Red Sea is a protected environment and foreigners found with coral may be subject to arrest.
From the airport: The airport is about 8km from most hotels. A taxi will cost between LE10-15 or you can take a bus for about 50pt-LE1.
Hotel:
Dive sites:
Amphoras (has a Turkish galleon site to explore).
Gordon Reef (another wreck, open-water fish - good for experts).
Jackson Reef (strong currents - another expert's site; sharks).
Ras Mohammed (considered one of the best sites in the world, two wrecks, great fish, eel and shark spotting; The Thistlegorm wreck can be accessed from here).
Ras Nasrany (beautiful reefs with sharp drops, good fish sightings).
Ras Um Sid (one the most popular diving sites - great fish and coral)
Shaab Abu Nahas (numerous wrecks - a popular site for beginners and experienced)
Shark's Bay (suggested for novice divers)
Small Lagoon (wreck of the Sangria)
The Tower (a fantastic variety of colorful and exotic fish)
Dive clubs:
African Divers (tel: 660-307; email: [email protected])
Anemone (tel: 600-995, email: [email protected])
Aquamarine Diving Center (Pigeon House Hotel; tel:600-276; fax: 600-176)
Aquanate (tel: 600-187; fax: 600-619)
Camel Dive Club (tel: 600-700; fax:600-601; email: [email protected] - can accommodate disabled divers).
Oonas Diving Center (tel: 600-581)
Red Sea Diving College (tel: 600-313; fax: 600-312, email: [email protected])
Sinai Divers - Ghazala Hotel (tel: 600-150; email: [email protected])
Subex - Movenpick Hotel (tel: 600-100)
Sightseeing:
Trains
Trains are a pleasant experience (providing you travel first class) and are an efficient way of travelling between major cities. Trains, however, do have the reputation of being target practice on routes in Upper Egypt. The authorities have attempted to address this problem by putting tourists in specially designated air-conditioned trains (ticket agents may not sell you tickets for any other classes). Some trains travelling from Cairo to Aswan and Luxor have their own security force, complete with uzis. First class has air conditioning (but not heating), waiter service, reclining armchairs and a no-standing policy. Non-air-conditioned trains are very basic and crowded with only second and third classes. Virtually all trains leave from Ramses Station in Cairo. You can buy tickets at the station (it is best to know how to say your destination in Arabic) or through a travel agent. There is a fairly useful information booth at Ramses Station.
Buses
The bus routes are divided into three main operators, all based in Cairo: the West Delta Company (tel: 765-582) serves Alexandria, Mersa Matrouh, Siwa Oasis and the Nile Delta; the East Delta Company (tel: 824-753) covers the Sinai and Canal Zone; the Upper Egypt Bus Company (tel: 260-9307) does the Nile Valley, the Fayoum and inner oases, and the Red Sea Coast. You can usually purchase tickets from terminal kiosks up to 24 hours in advance and you have a choice between air conditioned and non-air conditioned on long hauls (but don't expect to get the seat assigned to you). Schedules change at a moment's notice, so either be early or have a second plan. The Arab Union Transport Company (tel: 772-663) runs the Superjet buses which have toilets, videos and food.
Taxis
I hate taxis and avoid them at all costs. Of course, I live here and have my own car. The same is obviously not true for people visiting Cairo and taxis are the only alternative to walking if you are not on a tour. I am convinced that these black and white menaces of the road will be the death of me, even if I'm not in one! Despite having meters, they are never used, so the trick is to know the fare and pay on arrival (never pay what they first quote you). Some people haggle before getting in to avoid the confrontation at the other end: very loud shouting, spitting, aggressive arm-waving, and possible physical assault. I have even had an irate taxi driver follow me into a restaurant, throw things at me and demand more money. It was only the intervention of the restaurant's management that prevented the situation from escalating out of control. This is not pleasant and can be downright intimidating, but it is a standard practice among taxi drivers. Even if you are right about the fare, still expect the driver to be angry about it. A two minute trip will cost a local 30pt, while a foreigner should pay LE 3, but LE 20 will often be demanded! Also, most drivers will not know your destination, so try to find a landmark such as a hotel to guide them. Pay LE 3 for a few minutes ride, LE 3-6 across the Nile (never more than LE6 for any ride in greater Cairo), and LE10-15 further out. A 25 minute ride should cost you no more than LE 15. The same goes for a trip to the pyramids, but expect to haggle. The Chief of Cairo Tourist Police, Ahmed Hussein, recommends that if you experience a problem with a fare or a driver, contact the Tourist Office immediately (El Manial St., Roda Island or 5 Adly St., downtown) with a description of the driver, the taxi number and your complaint. Alternatively, you may wish to call an officer directly (dial 126) to come to you. Your money will be refunded if the police apprehend the taxi driver. Unfortunately, the only way to avoid the verbal and sometimes physical abuse by taxi drivers is to pay the exorbitant prices they are asking for. Use taxis because you must, but try not to watch the traffic and expect to be cheated and/or abused.
Flights
Egyptair is technically the safest way to get around Egypt. Having said that, one aborted take-off and numerous tense flights have left me wondering about the truth of this. Planes are also volatile places, so don't be alarmed if a fight breaks out - it is not a hijacking, only a dispute among passengers. My friend was sitting patiently on a plane with fellow passengers when the pilot bounded up the stairs and asked everyone if this was the flight to Saudi Arabia. It was kindly pointed out that, no, this was the flight to Cairo and the pilot made his retreat to try the next plane. Flying is an expensive way to get to your destination, but it is also the quickest and will give you more time for sightseeing. Unfortunately, many flights are only one to three times a week, so plan your trip carefully and work out alternative routes should the flights be cancelled. Airports are uncomfortable, have few services and the staff are often unhelpful in a crisis.
Below is a sample of tourist airfares (residents pay 50% less):
Aswan to Abu Simbel: one-way (n/a) return (LE290)
Cairo to Abu Simbel: one-way (LE820) return (LE1630)
Cairo to Alexandria: one-way (LE250) return (LE490)
Cairo to Aswan: one-way (LE580) return (LE1150)
Cairo to Hurghada: one way (LE450) return (LE 900)
Cairo to Luxor:one-way (LE 420) return (LE830)
Cairo to Sharm el Sheikh: one-way (LE480) return (LE950)
Luxor to Aswan: one-way (LE190) return (LE380)
Luxor to Hurghada: one-way (LE190) return (LE380)
Driving
There is probably few things more scary than driving in Cairo. Okay, maybe obtaining a licence. Basically the following is needed (but the rules change weekly): a letter from a physician verifying your blood type (have this done before you come to Egypt), your original driver's licence, a medical and eye examination certificate, two photos, a letter from your Embassy verifying your address (although, quite frankly I doubt they are going to check!) and a fee. You may also be asked to take a simple driving test around some cones. You may drive on an international license issued outside of Egypt for a year or on your foreign licence for three months. Apart from that, I think it is best that you get here to see for yourself how bad the driving is. I very much doubt you would believe me anyway!
Metro
Cairo's metro is clean and efficient with a large network of ever expanding stops. The front two carriages are for women only and any man who attempts to enter will be forcibly removed by the police (and sometimes beaten). Women may enter any carriage, but should do so only if with a man or a group. Stations are easily identified by the large M signs and there is English signage throughout the stations. Tickets are purchased in the station (30pt for up to two stops; 60pt from the centre to anywhere; 80pt from one end to the other). Keep your ticket until you exit. The Sadat stop is the best as it lies beneath Tahrir Square and is near the Egyptian Museum. Few foreigners use the metro, a fact that is apparent with the amount of attention that one attracts. I was actually attacked by two women while in the Sadat underground, an unpleasant experience to say the least.
In Egypt:
Cairo: Misr Travel Tower, Abasseye, Cairo. Tel: 285-3576
Abroad:
Australia: Press & Information Bureau of the Arab Republic of Egypt, 1 Darwin Avenue, Yarralumla, Canberra, 2600. Tel: 02-6273-4260, Fax: 6273-4629.
Greece: 5 salonos St. Kolonaki, Athens, 10671. Tel: 301-360-6906
Germany: 64A Kaiser Strasse, 60329, Frankfurt. Tel: 69-252-319. Fax: 239-876.
United States: 829-645 North Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois, 60611. Tel: 312-280-4666. Fax: 312-280-4788.
215-8383 Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills, California, 90211. Tel: 213-280-4666. Fax: 213-280-4788.
1706-630 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York, 10111. Tel: 212-332-2570. Fax: 212-956-6439.
United Kingdom: 170 Picadilly, London, W1V 9DD. Tel: 020-7493-5282. Fax: 020-7408-0295.
Spain: La Toree de Madrid, Planta 5, Oficina 3, Plaza de Espana, 28008, Madrid. Tel: 3491-559-2121
Canada: 250-1253 McGill College Ave., Montreal, Quebec, H3B 2Y5. Tel: 514-861-4420. Fax: 514-861-8071.
France: 90, Ave Champs Elysees, 75008, Paris. Tel: 0145629442. Fax: 0142893481.
Italy: 19, Via Bissolati, 00187, Rome. Tel: 3906-482-7985
Japan: Hoshinu Bldg. (3rd fl.) 4 - 2, 2 Chome - Azabudai, Minato - Ku - Tokyo. Tel: 813-3589-0653
Austria: Elisabeth Strasse - 4/5/1, Opornringhof 1010 Wien. Tel: 431-587-6633
South Africa: Regent Place Bldg. (1st Fl.), Mutural Gardens, Cradock Ave., Rosebank, Johannesburg. Tel: 2711-880-9602
Sweden: Drottninggatan 65, S - 11136 Stockholm. Tel: 468-102-548
Russia: Trubnikovski Pereulok 26, Apt. 34. 131069, Moscow. Tel: 7095-290-2856
Our recommended travel agent:
Egypt Panorama Tours:
4 Road 79, Maadi. Tel: 359-0200, 358-5880, 359-1301; fax: 359-1199
e-mail: [email protected]
US fax: 1-801-881-5752; UK fax: 0870-133-8575 (will be sent via e-mail)
Member of IATA and the American Society of Travel Agents
American Express: 21 Giza St., Nile Tower, Tel: 570-3411
Bon Voyage Travel: 16 Adly St., Tel: 390-5090
Eastmar Travel: 13 Kasr El Nil St., Tel: 575-7299
Isis Travel: 48 Giza St., Tel: 348-7761
Memnon Tours: 18 Hoda Sharawy St., Tel: 393-0195
Mena Tours: 16 El Nil St., Tel: 349-0168
Misr Travel: 1 Talaat Harb St., Tel: 393-0032
SeeEgypt: 23 Road 15, Maadi, Tel: 378-0972 ([email protected])
Seti First Travel: 16 Ismail Mohamed St., Tel: 341-9820
Thomas Cook: 12 El Sheikh Youssef Sq., Tel: 356-4650
