Stay and Play in Egypt.
) which I have enjoyed and which should not be missed. Two things to note: most museums close from about 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. for prayers on Friday, and cameras and video recorders cost extra (from LE 10 - 150) so you may want to consider taking postcards home instead.
Even if you are planning on visiting Egypt without a tour group, you should start by checking out travel agency brochures. It may not be possible to accomplish all that the tours do (some things are just easier to see or reach when an Egyptian tour guide is assisting) but it will give you an idea of what is essential to see.
Just as you should not miss the pyramids in Cairo, I feel Luxor is not to be left out. If you have one week, spend the first two days in Cairo checking out the Giza Pyramids and the Egyptian Museum (if you can swing it, head out to the Dashur pyramids). Spend the remaining days in Luxor either on a three-night cruise from Luxor to Aswan or just visiting Thebes (one day) and the East bank temples (one day). Be sure to fit in a felucca ride. I do not consider it essential to make an additional trip to Aswan if it is not with a tour - there are fewer things to see there.
If you have longer than a week, you may wish to add in a side trip to Hurghada or Sharm el Sheikh on the Red Sea. After whirlwind days of sightseeing, do not plan on (or expect there to be) anything but diving, snorkeling or sunbathing in these towns.
I have deliberately focused only on the prime tourist locations within Egypt for two reasons: they are relatively safe and have a lot to offer. Areas which are sympathetic to Islamic extremism, such as Minya, Assiut and the Upper Nile region, should be avoided. Your safest option is to fly to areas between Cairo and other sites in Egypt to avoid becoming the target of terrorists. If you decide to travel overland from Cairo, use car convoys. Buses are sometimes used for target practice by terrorists, especially on the Cairo to Aswan or Luxor route.
The Western standards of client service and attention to detail are something that many Egyptian hotels fall short on. The food offered in hotels tends to be expensive, of poor quality and limited in selection. Most foreign residents that I know of visit hotels only for the bar or pub, and not for a meal. In Cairo, unless the hotel is located directly downtown, there is little to walk to that is not a taxi-ride away. As a result, visitors can feel trapped with only the hotel's restaurants and shopping arcade as a diversion.
The following quote is taken from the Cairo Times (15-28 April 1999; "Star Inflation" by Azadeh Moaveni): "There are many institutional problems here holding true five-star service back," says a director at one of Cairo's largest five-star chain hotels. A combination of restrictive labor laws and a work culture resistant to change and accountability make it difficult to maintain a productive and professional staff, says the director.
"I've never had such a hard time like this anywhere else I've worked," he says. "By just doing your job - trying to fire bad workers, improving or changing how things are done - you not only get no support but come off looking like an evil bastard trying to hurt people."
Fears related to job security and a disregard for the bigger picture of a hotel's performance are also a problem, according to the director. "The only chef in our hotel who knows how to make good croissants won't tell anyone the recipe," he says, "because he's insecure and thinks his job depends on those croissants. So on his day off, we don't have any."
There are, nevertheless, a few good hotels out there which I do recommend. In this section I will briefly review the hotels that I have either stayed at or visited while in Egypt (all five star/deluxe). This is in no way intended to be an exhaustive review of hotels, only a discussion of what I know. I will continue to update this section as I visit further hotels.
Hotels:
The Mena House Oberoi Hotel & Casino: Pyramids' Road, Giza. Tel: 383-3222, Fax: 383-7777.
Located at the base of the pyramids, the luxurious Mena House Oberoi was originally constructed as a royal hunting lodge and was converted into a hotel in 1869. It is owned by the Indian-based Oberoi chain, and combines the original arabesque Islamic architecture alongside its new modern wing. This resort is set in 40 acres with a pool, tennis courts and a golf course. I have stayed at the Mena House Oberoi - one was a success, the other two times disasters.
Stay One: The large, ornately decorated rooms have huge balconies, many of which face the pyramids. There is nothing quite like the peace of sitting on the balcony watching the sun set against the pyramids. There are five restaurants and I highly recommend the excellent The Moghul Room which specializes in Indian cuisine and is always full of foreign residents. The main drawback is that the hotel does not provide a shuttle bus for the 30 minute taxi-ride to downtown.
Stay Two: Unfortunately, standards have slipped over the months, and I have been treated to lost reservations, rude front desk staff, tired-looking rooms, no frills, suggestions of my skipping out without paying, and repeated trips to the General Manager to complain. Not the same old fabulous place. My verdict: you take your chances.
Stay Three: You would think I had learned my lesson! Well, this time, despite having the rates confirmed on hotel letterhead, the front desk insisted upon check-out that I pay significantly more. No manager could clear this up and another trip to the General Manager (who seemed overwhelmed and kept repeating how it was very confusing to him) seemed to be a waste of time.
Semiramis InterContinental Cairo: Corniche el Nil, P.O. Box 60, Cairo. Tel: 355-7171, Fax: 356-3020. Internet: www.interconti.com, e-mail: [email protected]
The Semiramis InterContinental Cairo, located on the bank of the Nile and within walking distance to the Egyptian Museum and numerous Embassies, was a pleasant surprise. This is one of only two hotels that I would recommend to friends to stay at and one which I visit regularly for the restaurants. Although it appears quite drab from the outside, the lobby is large and inviting. The staff all spoke excellent English, were eager to assist and provided detailed and accurate information when requested. This high level of competency was the first reason that convinced me to patronize the Semiramis InterContinental. The other was the restaurants. The hotel can boast ten above average restaurants, including ones that specialize in Italian, Far Eastern, International, and French cuisine. There is also the Tea Garden, which is a quiet but elegant meeting point for a hot drink, and Los Amigos, a Mexican themed restaurant and bar. An example of the Semiramis InterContinental's attention to detail can be found in the well planned menu of the coffee shop, Night and Day, which offers dishes low in sodium, low in cholesterol, and for vegetarians (the first of its kind that I have seen in Cairo). The shopping arcade spans two floors, and includes a drugstore, florist, gift shops, jewelers and different boutiques.
Cairo Sheraton: Galaa Sq., Dokki, Cairo. Tel: 336-9700.
There are two Sheratons, directly facing each other across the Nile, which can make things confusing. The Cairo Sheraton is the better of the two, and is popular with locals and tour groups. It has two towers, good arcades, and a pool. The large rooms are impressive and boast long balconies. I was lucky enough to have a corner room facing the pyramids with a balcony that wrapped around both sides of the hotel. Although the Cairo smog is thick, nothing could diminish my first glimpse of the pyramids. The Cairo Sheraton is located in Dokki, on the bank of the west bank of the Nile. This isolation across the Nile requires a taxi-ride and there is very little to walk to around the hotel given that it is located on a heavily travelled traffic circle. The staff at the hotel, in my experience, are not helpful and quite abrupt. I have never successfully managed to contact anyone staying at the hotel and I once resorted to calling the General Manager for help to reach one of the restaurants.
Nile Hilton: Tahrir Sq., Downtown. Tel: 578-0444
This hotel could not have a better location for tourists: its immediate neighbor is the Egyptian Museum and it rests on the bank of the Nile. Unfortunately, it is one of the ugliest buildings in Cairo and looks like a dormitory out of the 1950s. Being across from the Nile does not mean, however, that it is easily accessible. After the death-defying run across the multi-lane street, many foreigners retreat to the Nile Hilton for a breather and a stiff drink! The hotel contains many restaurants, including a pub and a pizzeria. However, service is another matter. On one visit, after being ignored for 15 minutes, I left one restaurant only to be treated with the same cold shoulder at another. I was repeatedly told to wait and it was only after physically intercepting a waiter that I was able to place my order. If you sit long enough you will notice the high number of affluent Egyptians that pass through the large, airy lobby of the hotel, a testimony to its popularity with the locals. There are two shopping arcades: a small one in the hotel and a larger, more fashion-oriented mall besides the hotel, and a large swimming pool.
El Gezirah Sheraton: El Orman St., Dokki. Tel: 341-1333, Fax: 341-3640.
This second Sheraton hotel in Cairo is located on an island on the Nile and is a familiar landmark, with its single round tower jutting out. And that is one of its greatest drawbacks. El Gezirah Sheraton Hotel has had to make do with as little land as possible, thus making for a tight squeeze. There is a minuscule pool, unfortunately located adjacent to a main walkway with a prime view for every passerby. The lobby is small, cramped and filled with business people. There is little to do and few places to go for anyone with a family. It is difficult to bring cars onto the grounds, but you will need some form of transportation if you want to leave the hotel. This is not a family-oriented hotel, but more suited for business people. All of the rooms do have a view of the Nile, but have very small balconies.
Le Meridien Cairo: Corniche El Nil, Garden City. Tel: 362-1717
I have always considered Le Meridien chain to be one of the most superior in the world. Unfortunately, Le Meridien Cairo is virtually unrecognizable as a member. Located on the bank of the Nile, Le Meridien Cairo is in the process of adding another tower complete with a pool, to its complex. Hopefully this will breathe life back into the hotel. It is located within a 20 minute walking distance of the Egyptian Museum and close to the American, British and Canadian Embassies. The lobby is small, with no seating. There is a cafe/bar located in the lobby, but it has a LE20 minimal charge and does not allow children. The arcade consists of a few shops, but the hotel does have a large, decorated pool by the Nile River. The coffee shop was disappointing. Two out of three of our orders were wrong, and considering that the staff were listless and clearly disinterested in our wellbeing, we were resigned to eating what was put in front of us. The view from this hotel is breathtaking and probably the saving grace for Le Meridien Cairo. The Hard Rock Cafe has now opened a restaurant in Le Meridien Cairo.
From the airport:
Cairo's airport is located 25km north-east of the city, so expect 20-30 minutes travel time to downtown and 40-50 minutes to Maadi. There are two terminals: Terminal 2 supports most international flights, while Terminal 1 is used by EgyptAir. You will most likely come through Terminal 2 at some wee hour of the morning. When you exit the plane you will walk past a couple of duty-free shops (usually closed at the hour you arrive), exchange offices, banks and Thomas Cook before reaching customs. You can find a lost and found booth at Terminal 1.
If you are not with a tour, you can reach Cairo by taxi or bus (see below for my comments on transportation). For those that are cost-conscious, there is a new No. 356 airport service. It runs from Terminal 2 and 1 to the square behind the Egyptian Museum and back. You can locate the bus stand by heading out into the airport car park. The fare is about LE2 per person plus LE1 for each piece of luggage with the bus running from 5:45 a.m. until 11 p.m. The local No. 400 bus (usually crowded) runs the same route for (25pt). Alternatively, you can take a taxi. You can't miss the taxi drivers the minute you step out the doors of the airport. You should not pay more than LE20-30 for a trip to your downtown hotel. Settle the price before you get in and hand the money over at the other end. There will be a fight - you are right and they are greedy, so ignore the protests and head into the hotel.
Sightseeing:
CITADEL OF SALADIN
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Salah El Din El Ayyubi, founder of the Ayubbid dynasty, built this medieval stronghold in 1183 A.D. atop the Mohattam hill range. Six centuries later the impressive Mohammed Ali Mosque was built within the compound. Also on the site is the Jewel Museum, the Cairo Carriage Museum, and the Military Museum.
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THE PYRAMIDS AND SPHINX OF GIZA
| The Pyramid of Chephren is a stunning backdrop for the Sphinx (below). Sometimes overlooked, the Pyramid of Mykernos sits alone with its smaller Queens' pyramids (above, right). The famous silhousette (below, right).
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Visit the Pyramids of Cheops, Chephren and Mykernos and the Sphinx. Do not pass up on the opportunity to enter the pyramids (entry to each pyramid is often rotated so you may not be able to see all three). Although not as decorative as the tombs at Thebes, there is something magical about standing within the pyramids. One thing I must add from my own experience and those of visitors to the pyramids: it is easy to be distracted by the intense harassment of the highly aggressive merchants, camel and horse owners, and impromptu "official" ticket checkers, all out to part you from your money. Do not hand your ticket over to anyone except the uniformed agent beside the ticket box at the entrance to the site and at the entrance of each pyramid or else you may have to pay to have your ticket returned. Do not hesitate to be aggressive back and seek out the tourist police if you are not eventually left in peace.
There is a nightly Sound and Light Show (LE 33 for tourists) with the pyramids as props, presented in Arabic, English, French, Japanese and German.
The Solar Boat Museum is located behind Cheops Pyramid (LE 20 for tourists) and houses the boat that may have carried the body of Pharaoh Cheops down the Nile from Memphis. Discovered in 1954, the boat is over 4,500 years old and show signs of use.
STEP PYRAMID AT SAQQARA
| Built for the Pharaoh Zoser by Imhotep in 2816 B.C., and literally a step pyramid, this is the first large-scale stone structure in history. It is good as a visual example of the evolution of the construction of the pyramid. |  |
PYRAMIDS OF DASHUR
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| One of the most impressive pyramid fields, the Red Pyramid (above, left) rivals the Great Pyramid at Giza and should not be missed. The interior is something to behold, with three breathtaking (literally and figuratively) chambers. Make sure to visit the Bent Pyramid (above, right), which provides a fascinating view of the construction of a pyramid through the crumbling exterior. The Pyramids of Dashur are unfortunately often overlooked, partially due to their distance from Cairo.
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The mayor's declared plans to rejuvenate Alexandria over the next five years has come not a moment too soon. Heavily steeped in Italian architecture, this Mediterranean city still shows shadows of the splendor of its heyday. Anyone visiting Alex should not miss the opportunity to walk down the Corniche. Fortunately, part of the five-year plan is the clean-up of the filthy, stained beaches and waterfront. Most tourist attractions are located downtown and staying anywhere except around Saad Zaghloul Square will require the use of numerous taxis. Alex is very windy and cold in the winter, and you may be favoured with one of Egypt's few downpours. |
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