Stay and Play in Egypt.
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Destination of choice for many Europeans and affluent Egyptians, Hurghada is a resort town. Anyone not staying at one of the numerous resort will most likely have to travel far to reach a public beach. The same goes for the marine life. Located offshore, you will need to arrange for a boat and guide (at around LE35 for a half day, including snorkelling gear) to take you to the prime spots. |
Hotels:
Dive sites:
Fanadir (close to Hurghada and very popular, can sometime spot dolphins).
Fanous (great fish, coral and sometimes dolphins).
Giftun Islands (beautiful reefs around numerous islands).
Shaab el Erg (quite far from Hurghada but interesting open-water fish).
Shaab Torfa (near Giftun Islands, coral).
Shedwan Island (reefs and sharks).
Dive clubs:
Aquanaut Red Sea (tel: 549-891; fax: 547-045; email: [email protected])
Jasmin Diving Center (tel: 446-455, email: [email protected])
Red Sea Diving Center (tel: 442-960; fax: 442-234; email: [email protected])
Red Sea Scuba Schools - Hitlon Resort (tel: 444-854; email: [email protected])
Sub Aqua - Sofitel Hotel (tel:442-473; email: [email protected])
Subex (tel: 547-593; fax: 547-471)
Sightseeing:
Sharm El Sheikh is located at the tip of the Sinai and is considered the top dive site on the Red Sea. Coral reefs and marine life are easily reached from the shore by wading into the cool water. Sharm is also a town of resorts and there is little to do apart from relaxing in the sun and diving. The Red Sea is a protected environment and foreigners found with coral may be subject to arrest.
From the airport: The airport is about 8km from most hotels. A taxi will cost between LE10-15 or you can take a bus for about 50pt-LE1.
Hotel:
Dive sites:
Amphoras (has a Turkish galleon site to explore).
Gordon Reef (another wreck, open-water fish - good for experts).
Jackson Reef (strong currents - another expert's site; sharks).
Ras Mohammed (considered one of the best sites in the world, two wrecks, great fish, eel and shark spotting; The Thistlegorm wreck can be accessed from here).
Ras Nasrany (beautiful reefs with sharp drops, good fish sightings).
Ras Um Sid (one the most popular diving sites - great fish and coral)
Shaab Abu Nahas (numerous wrecks - a popular site for beginners and experienced)
Shark's Bay (suggested for novice divers)
Small Lagoon (wreck of the Sangria)
The Tower (a fantastic variety of colorful and exotic fish)
Dive clubs:
African Divers (tel: 660-307; email: [email protected])
Anemone (tel: 600-995, email: [email protected])
Aquamarine Diving Center (Pigeon House Hotel; tel:600-276; fax: 600-176)
Aquanate (tel: 600-187; fax: 600-619)
Camel Dive Club (tel: 600-700; fax:600-601; email: [email protected] - can accommodate disabled divers).
Oonas Diving Center (tel: 600-581)
Red Sea Diving College (tel: 600-313; fax: 600-312, email: [email protected])
Sinai Divers - Ghazala Hotel (tel: 600-150; email: [email protected])
Subex - Movenpick Hotel (tel: 600-100)
Sightseeing:
Trains
Trains are a pleasant experience (providing you travel first class) and are an efficient way of travelling between major cities. Trains, however, do have the reputation of being target practice on routes in Upper Egypt. The authorities have attempted to address this problem by putting tourists in specially designated air-conditioned trains (ticket agents may not sell you tickets for any other classes). Some trains travelling from Cairo to Aswan and Luxor have their own security force, complete with uzis. First class has air conditioning (but not heating), waiter service, reclining armchairs and a no-standing policy. Non-air-conditioned trains are very basic and crowded with only second and third classes. Virtually all trains leave from Ramses Station in Cairo. You can buy tickets at the station (it is best to know how to say your destination in Arabic) or through a travel agent. There is a fairly useful information booth at Ramses Station.
Buses
The bus routes are divided into three main operators, all based in Cairo: the West Delta Company (tel: 765-582) serves Alexandria, Mersa Matrouh, Siwa Oasis and the Nile Delta; the East Delta Company (tel: 824-753) covers the Sinai and Canal Zone; the Upper Egypt Bus Company (tel: 260-9307) does the Nile Valley, the Fayoum and inner oases, and the Red Sea Coast. You can usually purchase tickets from terminal kiosks up to 24 hours in advance and you have a choice between air conditioned and non-air conditioned on long hauls (but don't expect to get the seat assigned to you). Schedules change at a moment's notice, so either be early or have a second plan. The Arab Union Transport Company (tel: 772-663) runs the Superjet buses which have toilets, videos and food.
Taxis
I hate taxis and avoid them at all costs. Of course, I live here and have my own car. The same is obviously not true for people visiting Cairo and taxis are the only alternative to walking if you are not on a tour. I am convinced that these black and white menaces of the road will be the death of me, even if I'm not in one! Despite having meters, they are never used, so the trick is to know the fare and pay on arrival (never pay what they first quote you). Some people haggle before getting in to avoid the confrontation at the other end: very loud shouting, spitting, aggressive arm-waving, and possible physical assault. I have even had an irate taxi driver follow me into a restaurant, throw things at me and demand more money. It was only the intervention of the restaurant's management that prevented the situation from escalating out of control. This is not pleasant and can be downright intimidating, but it is a standard practice among taxi drivers. Even if you are right about the fare, still expect the driver to be angry about it. A two minute trip will cost a local 30pt, while a foreigner should pay LE 3, but LE 20 will often be demanded! Also, most drivers will not know your destination, so try to find a landmark such as a hotel to guide them. Pay LE 3 for a few minutes ride, LE 3-6 across the Nile (never more than LE6 for any ride in greater Cairo), and LE10-15 further out. A 25 minute ride should cost you no more than LE 15. The same goes for a trip to the pyramids, but expect to haggle. The Chief of Cairo Tourist Police, Ahmed Hussein, recommends that if you experience a problem with a fare or a driver, contact the Tourist Office immediately (El Manial St., Roda Island or 5 Adly St., downtown) with a description of the driver, the taxi number and your complaint. Alternatively, you may wish to call an officer directly (dial 126) to come to you. Your money will be refunded if the police apprehend the taxi driver. Unfortunately, the only way to avoid the verbal and sometimes physical abuse by taxi drivers is to pay the exorbitant prices they are asking for. Use taxis because you must, but try not to watch the traffic and expect to be cheated and/or abused.
Flights
Egyptair is technically the safest way to get around Egypt. Having said that, one aborted take-off and numerous tense flights have left me wondering about the truth of this. Planes are also volatile places, so don't be alarmed if a fight breaks out - it is not a hijacking, only a dispute among passengers. My friend was sitting patiently on a plane with fellow passengers when the pilot bounded up the stairs and asked everyone if this was the flight to Saudi Arabia. It was kindly pointed out that, no, this was the flight to Cairo and the pilot made his retreat to try the next plane. Flying is an expensive way to get to your destination, but it is also the quickest and will give you more time for sightseeing. Unfortunately, many flights are only one to three times a week, so plan your trip carefully and work out alternative routes should the flights be cancelled. Airports are uncomfortable, have few services and the staff are often unhelpful in a crisis.
Below is a sample of tourist airfares (residents pay 50% less):
Aswan to Abu Simbel: one-way (n/a) return (LE290)
Cairo to Abu Simbel: one-way (LE820) return (LE1630)
Cairo to Alexandria: one-way (LE250) return (LE490)
Cairo to Aswan: one-way (LE580) return (LE1150)
Cairo to Hurghada: one way (LE450) return (LE 900)
Cairo to Luxor:one-way (LE 420) return (LE830)
Cairo to Sharm el Sheikh: one-way (LE480) return (LE950)
Luxor to Aswan: one-way (LE190) return (LE380)
Luxor to Hurghada: one-way (LE190) return (LE380)
Driving
There is probably few things more scary than driving in Cairo. Okay, maybe obtaining a licence. Basically the following is needed (but the rules change weekly): a letter from a physician verifying your blood type (have this done before you come to Egypt), your original driver's licence, a medical and eye examination certificate, two photos, a letter from your Embassy verifying your address (although, quite frankly I doubt they are going to check!) and a fee. You may also be asked to take a simple driving test around some cones. You may drive on an international license issued outside of Egypt for a year or on your foreign licence for three months. Apart from that, I think it is best that you get here to see for yourself how bad the driving is. I very much doubt you would believe me anyway!
Metro
Cairo's metro is clean and efficient with a large network of ever expanding stops. The front two carriages are for women only and any man who attempts to enter will be forcibly removed by the police (and sometimes beaten). Women may enter any carriage, but should do so only if with a man or a group. Stations are easily identified by the large M signs and there is English signage throughout the stations. Tickets are purchased in the station (30pt for up to two stops; 60pt from the centre to anywhere; 80pt from one end to the other). Keep your ticket until you exit. The Sadat stop is the best as it lies beneath Tahrir Square and is near the Egyptian Museum. Few foreigners use the metro, a fact that is apparent with the amount of attention that one attracts. I was actually attacked by two women while in the Sadat underground, an unpleasant experience to say the least.
In Egypt:
Cairo: Misr Travel Tower, Abasseye, Cairo. Tel: 285-3576
Abroad:
Australia: Press & Information Bureau of the Arab Republic of Egypt, 1 Darwin Avenue, Yarralumla, Canberra, 2600. Tel: 02-6273-4260, Fax: 6273-4629.
Greece: 5 salonos St. Kolonaki, Athens, 10671. Tel: 301-360-6906
Germany: 64A Kaiser Strasse, 60329, Frankfurt. Tel: 69-252-319. Fax: 239-876.
United States: 829-645 North Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois, 60611. Tel: 312-280-4666. Fax: 312-280-4788.
215-8383 Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills, California, 90211. Tel: 213-280-4666. Fax: 213-280-4788.
1706-630 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York, 10111. Tel: 212-332-2570. Fax: 212-956-6439.
United Kingdom: 170 Picadilly, London, W1V 9DD. Tel: 020-7493-5282. Fax: 020-7408-0295.
Spain: La Toree de Madrid, Planta 5, Oficina 3, Plaza de Espana, 28008, Madrid. Tel: 3491-559-2121
Canada: 250-1253 McGill College Ave., Montreal, Quebec, H3B 2Y5. Tel: 514-861-4420. Fax: 514-861-8071.
France: 90, Ave Champs Elysees, 75008, Paris. Tel: 0145629442. Fax: 0142893481.
Italy: 19, Via Bissolati, 00187, Rome. Tel: 3906-482-7985
Japan: Hoshinu Bldg. (3rd fl.) 4 - 2, 2 Chome - Azabudai, Minato - Ku - Tokyo. Tel: 813-3589-0653
Austria: Elisabeth Strasse - 4/5/1, Opornringhof 1010 Wien. Tel: 431-587-6633
South Africa: Regent Place Bldg. (1st Fl.), Mutural Gardens, Cradock Ave., Rosebank, Johannesburg. Tel: 2711-880-9602
Sweden: Drottninggatan 65, S - 11136 Stockholm. Tel: 468-102-548
Russia: Trubnikovski Pereulok 26, Apt. 34. 131069, Moscow. Tel: 7095-290-2856
Our recommended travel agent:
Egypt Panorama Tours:
4 Road 79, Maadi. Tel: 359-0200, 358-5880, 359-1301; fax: 359-1199
e-mail: [email protected]
US fax: 1-801-881-5752; UK fax: 0870-133-8575 (will be sent via e-mail)
Member of IATA and the American Society of Travel Agents
American Express: 21 Giza St., Nile Tower, Tel: 570-3411
Bon Voyage Travel: 16 Adly St., Tel: 390-5090
Eastmar Travel: 13 Kasr El Nil St., Tel: 575-7299
Isis Travel: 48 Giza St., Tel: 348-7761
Memnon Tours: 18 Hoda Sharawy St., Tel: 393-0195
Mena Tours: 16 El Nil St., Tel: 349-0168
Misr Travel: 1 Talaat Harb St., Tel: 393-0032
SeeEgypt: 23 Road 15, Maadi, Tel: 378-0972 ([email protected])
Seti First Travel: 16 Ismail Mohamed St., Tel: 341-9820
Thomas Cook: 12 El Sheikh Youssef Sq., Tel: 356-4650
